A weekend in Morehead City

When we pulled into Morehead City the other evening, I was struggling with a cold.   We just shut down for a day, and I slept.  Rudy rented a car, picked up a couple of items, and, well, I don't really know all he did, because I slept!

A friend, and former Coastie, Tom Ri!ce, lent his practically brand new outboard to us to use for the rest of the trip!  His dad delivered the outboard Friday night, shortly after we arrived, and we put it on the inflatable on Saturday.  The little boat runs great now!  We had a borrowed 20 year old outboard on it before, a little smaller, and MUCH louder, but it barely pushed the vessel.  This outboard is so quiet, very dependable-looking, and I know will add greatly to the trip.  Thanks Tom!

Sunday, Rudy drove us to Jacksonville, NC, where my friends C.L.and Cora Varvel are pastoring at Crossroads Assembly of God. The church is friendly, the music was awesome, C.L. gave a good Word, and it was great seeing old friends!  We enjoyed service with them, and ate lunch with them afterwards in Swansboro.  I managed to Shanghai them into cruising with me from Morehead City to Swansboro tomorrow, after Rudy jumps ship and heads for the airport in Wilmington.

The folks at Portside Marina in Morehead City have been wonderful.  They told me tonight that I now have family in North Carolina.  They are friendly and helpful, and I've enjoyed the couple of days here.  The access in is easy, it is next to the commercial port, but not noisy from it. 

It was cold this morning, however, so I intend to head further south in the morning.  Stay tuned....

Morehead City, NC

This morning we left Oriental, NC and crossed the Neuse River and explored a little ways up South River before coming back out into the Neuse River and over to Adams Creek.  We continued up Adams Creek, where we saw the most variety of birds we’ve seen so far, which is a little surprising, since we have been in far less populated places.

Before we came out of Adams Creek, we began seeing a lot of dolphins.  There were probably a dozen chasing fish immediately off the Morehead City phosphate docks.

We pulled into Portside Marina in Morehead City, NC, the first marina we’ve been to.  The people here are very nice.  They are easy to find, and immediately off the ICW.  They have floating docks, and we’re in the lee of a howling wind.  I’ve been doing laundry this evening. 

MERCY gets a new crane!

Oriental, NC

We pulled anchor and went down the Pungo River, rejoining the ICW.  We cruised in and out of Belhaven, NC for a gander.  It seems like a pretty little town.

We cruised across the Pamlico River, down the Bay River, and down the Neuse River to Oriental.  I could easy spend a month exploring these places.

We went into  Oriental, and checked to see if there was any space available at the city dock.  There wasn’t.  So we crossed under the fixed highway bridge, and anchored in Green Creek.  35 01.512’  76 42.489’

Rudy took the inflatable into Oriental to walk around

About 3 in the morning, the wind dropped off to calm, followed by a 25-30 knot wind out of the NE at 4.  Our anchored held find, but it put me a little closer to the shore than I wanted, so we picked up and re-anchored.

Pungo River, NC

We departed Elizabeth City, NC and continued across the Abemarle Sound where we had a pretty rough crossing. 

Sunrise in E-City

Alligator River Bridge

Nose pushed in mud at Catfish Point, Frying Pan Lake

Then we Entered the Alligator River, and into the Alligator River/Pungo River canal until we exited and went up the Pungo River to anchor 33 33.888’  76 28.957’  Although they are calling for high winds tomorrow, it is calm tonight.  The river is surrounded by marsh grass a few feet tall, and places where the creek branches out.  We are close enough to some road that I occasionally see a truck go by, but, it is a peaceful, quiet place, and a great anchorage for a southwest wind.  The Manta One had anchored near us.

Pungo River Sunset

Elizabeth City, NC

Tonight we are tied up to the free city docks in the friendliest hospitality harbor in America.  The tourism board greets boaters and hosts a meet and greet every evening, providing important info to boaters, and making them aware of the boat friendly important tips (like the phone number of a grocery store that will pick you up and take you to their store!)  All of the people we met were friendly, and it seems like a great little town.



MERCY, IZZY R, and Manta 42 Cat



This morning began with us pulling away from the boat raft at the Great Dismal Swamp Visitor’s dock, and allowing all but three vessels to leave.  The three vessels who remained all visited the visitor’s center, walked the boardwalks, and enjoyed a leisurely cruise down the canal an hour and a half behind the mad rush.

After we locked out of the Great Dismal Swamp at the South Mills Lock, we cruised down the Pasquotank River, a natural cypress lined curvy waterway.  It looked a lot like some of the rivers in Northern Florida, with turtles out sunning on the logs, and a swampy backdrop.

IZZY R astern in the Pasquotank

After the river widened out, Rudy and I anchored behind Goat Island and launched the inflatable to explore a little bit, and enjoyed a closer view of the cypress swamp.  We went up a creek a little ways, and found ourselves in a subdivision.  Uh, oh well, we went a little too far south to explore!

We came under the Elizabeth City, NC bridge a little before 4:00, at which time they shut down for two hours. 

Tonight we went to dinner at the Cypress Creek Grill and celebrated Jeff's birthday with his wife Izzy (from the IZZY R) and with other new friends Peter and Maggy (from the Australian Manta 42).  There were many sea stories and laughes all around and a good time was had by all.

We hope to beat the weather across the Albemarle Sound tomorrow, before the wind picks up.

The Great Dismal Swamp

When I woke up this morning, there were several more boats in the anchorage, and a cruise ship had pulled in directly across the channel from us.  One of the most interesting additions to me, of boats arriving after dark, was a 37’ Nordic Tug that looked very similar to mine.  We pulled alongside and talked to Joan on the SAWDUST, which is the 37’ Nordic Tug #58 (MERCY is #57) How cool is that?!  We traded cell numbers, and hope to meet up further south.

Tug SAWDUST, not MERCY

We waited over an hour for a bridge opening, and there were 23 boats packed in close to catch the opening.  One scheduled opening had been missed because of a train, which meant the adjacent railroad bridge was closed.

Rudy and Mercy relaxing on deck

We crossed under Interstate 64 and swung hard to starboard to enter Deep Creek, enroute to the Great Dismal Swamp.  The lockmaster was calling vessels on the VHF, and carefully sandwiching everybody in.  He kept calling other boats behind us, saving us for last, since we appeared very maneuverable.  Then we pulled in the starboard side of the lock, and the lockmaster closed the port gate.  Then he had us turn sideways in the lock so he could close the starboard gate.  We had twenty boats in the lock!  I’ve been through a lot of locks, but this is the first one I’ve ever gone through side-ways!

In the Deep Creek (VA) Lock

Then we proceeded into the Great Dismal Swamp, following the whole string of sailboats and powerboats.  Ten miles before the visitor  center, we saw a bulkhead on the bank, turned around, pulled alongside,  shut down, and went ashore and stretched our legs for a while, letting  Mercy the dog enjoy some interesting woods smells.  When we got underway a half hour later, it seemed as though we had the “ditch” to ourselves, enjoying the swamp experience rather than clutching in and out of gear at the back of the southerly migration.

Pitstop in the Dismal Swamp Canal

The trees are gorgeous along the banks of the waterway.  The canal was dug by hand, largely by slaves, back in the days of George Washington, who owned land in the swamp, and was interested in digging a canal to float lumber out.  The trees are full of wild grape vines, whose leaves are turning, as we as some color in a few of the trees as well.  The waterway is narrow, and in some places not much more than 6 feet deep, with occasional fallen tree limbs to dodge.  It is a fun trip. 

We crossed into North Carolina, and had a welcome sign on the water.

We arrived at the visitor center about 4:45, just as the last boat was getting tied up.  So, tonight we are outboard five boats, with three or four rows of boats ahead of us.  We have the canal blocked off.  I think my Whaler could pass between the MERCY and the far bank!

MERCY rafted on the far left

We met many of the boaters tied up here, and got a great boat tour from the gorgeous trawler alongside us, the IZZY R, with Jeff, Izzy, and Ben, the dog.  I also walked over and met a lady on a 34’ sailboat, single-handing south.  Her name is Christine Kline, and she is a published author whose heroine is a female tug boat captain with a black lab!  She writes murder mysteries, and gave me an autographed book!  I can hardly wait to start reading!

Most of the boats are pulling out in the morning for the first lock opening, but we’re only going to pull away to allow others to leave, giving us the opportunity to go see the visitor’s center.

On to Norfolk

Sunday dawned beautifully over the Waterman’s Museum on the York River at Yorktown.

Rudy and I walked up to Church Street to attend the 7:45 am service at Grace Episcopal Church, built in 1690. 

The Church was a lovely historical building, and I wondered how many of our parishioners would complain that the pews were only deep enough to reach half way from your butt to your knees, and the pews were close enough together that you had to be careful when putting the kneeling pads down that your feet didn’t knock over the ones in the pews behind you.  The congregation there was friendly, and the priest gave a thoughtful message that literally kept us on the edge of our seats. The service was over in time for Sunday school, had I been in Key West.  

We walked the historic streets of Yorktown, where I met with Admiral Francois de Grasse as we tried to convince George Washington to handle the armies, and leave the maritime end to us, lest he lose men in the York River the way he did in the Potomac.  It must have worked, since history records that, as the result of the British defeat at Yorktown, we rebel patriots eventually won the war.  Actually, I learned today that the victory was in large part due to the French Admiral. 

We walked up to the National Park Visitor Center, and enjoyed about an hour long guided historical tour by an interpretive ranger.  Then we walked back down the hill to the boat, where we departed Yorktown a little after noon.

Yorktown City Docks

The weather kept getting better and better, and we made good time to Norfolk.  We cruised in Hampton and looked at the old Fort Monroe before continuing past the Norfolk Naval facilities, finally anchoring in about 17 feet of water at mile marker 0 on the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, hereafter referred to as the AICW. 

 We are just off the Portsmouth Naval Hospital and directly across from the museum Battleship Wisconsin in Norfolk.

There are probably about twenty boats anchored in this little indentation off the Elizabeth River, most of which are sailboats.  We grilled hamburgers, and after we post this blog, I may call it an early night.

On to Yorktown, VA

In the morning, Rudy and I said good-bye for now to Dick, who may join me again further south.  We exited Balls Creek, and the Great Wicomico River, and ran to the southwest to the York River.  The wind was astern of us at almost exactly the same speed we were cruising, which gave the effect of no wind at all with the doors open.

We tried unsuccessfully to hail the York River Yacht Haven by phone and VHF before we pulled into their facility up Sarah Creek to top off on fuel and water.  There wasn’t anyone on the docks, or at the store.  Rudy walked up to find anybody at this gorgeous yachting facility, and discovered that everyone was at their Boater’s Appreciation Day with their annual Oyster Cookout.  They invited us to join them, which we gladly did after we topped off on fuel and water.  What a great surprise.  The sun was shining, the air was cool and crisp, and the day was beautiful.  The fried oysters were delicious and I met several nice cruising folks.

Mercy supervising refueling operations

Then we went up the York River a little ways before returning to meet friends of ours at the Yorktown Waterman’s Museum at 6:00 o’clock.  A bride and groom were having their reception at the facilities nearby.

We walked up to the Duke of York, a great seafood restaurant for supper with our friends John and Maxine.  (Thank you!)  John and a friend will join me further on my journey

On To The Great Wicomico River, VA

The day dawned beautifully in Solomons, MD.  We departed around 8:00am and began a leisurely journey to the southwest.  The wind had settled remarkably, and the day was gorgeous. 

We passed Point No Point and Point Lookout as we journeyed to the southwest and entered the Great Wicomico River, and upstream to Balls Creek where friends have a beautiful home and wonderful dockage in a gorgeous still water cove.

I enjoyed romping in the woods with the dogs while the guys worked on a go-cart motor.  How many of your friends have a zip line at their house?  I told Mike and Linda that their place made me feel like a kid again!

Dick on zipline

The cove was breath taking!  It would have been amazing without the boat in the photo, but, hey, this is the MERCY blog….

Our friends, Mike and Linda, had us up to a delicious dinner in their home, (thanks guys!) and we said our goodbyes that evening for a morning departure.  What a wonderful visit we had, in a beautiful place.

A day in Solomons, MD

Around 4 o'clock this morning, the wind started HOWLING!  It sure was nice to be in a protected anchorage with good holding Chesapeake Bay mud!  Tomorrow, I may not appreciate the good mud when we try to get the hook up, but, it sure was nice today!  The whole, new vessel, unfamiliar ground tackle kept me up for awhile, but I returned to bed before daylight, when Dick and Rudy got up and didn't want to start the generator to make coffee for fear of waking me up!  Coffee instructions?  Light the generator, and turn on the heater.  When the boat gets warm enough, I'm no longer afraid to crawl out from under the covers!

This is such a beautiful little town.  The guys launched the dinghy after breakfast.  There was a lot of discussion about how much of that I ought to post in the blog, but I won't say anything about losing a hat overboard, or an outboard quitting and somebody getting towed back to the boat, or any of the heckling.  I will only say that I was inside, vacuuming, and later washing windows so I could watch the whole show.

After Rudy and Dick pulled the sparkplug and cleaned it, Mercy and I rode with Dick into the fuel pier, and added a little gasoline to the gas oil mix.  The folks at the Solomons Yatch Center are very nice.  They even gave me internet access! 

Then we up to the Calvert Marine Museum. 

What a cool museum!  They had a lot of paleontological artifacts and fossils from the area, great exhibits, some local history, some local maritime history, and several live marine exhibits.  I was so impressed with the museum, I would recommend it to anyone!

If that wasn't enough, they had a live otter exhibit outside.  When we walked out the door, the pair of otters spotted Mercy, and raced over to the side of the tank to investigate.  Mercy was very interested, but never broke position.  (Good dog!)  When I realized the otters weren't afraid, I approached the glass and let Mercy say hello.  We walked around, and they followed us everywhere.  As we started to walk away from their wet area, they followed us to their dry habitat, and ran over to the glass where they tried to smell Mercy as hard as she tried to smell them.  I think it was the highlight of the day for a dog, and a couple of otters! 

When Dick and I returned to the boat, Rudy went to the museum as well.  Then he and Dick went to try to see a replica of the British revenue cutter SULTANA, which they couldn't get aboard, but it was fun to see from a distance.

When the guys returned, we all went to eat at Stony's Kingfisher, which has great seafood, and a dinghy dock!

Tomorrow, our destination is the Great Wicomico River, to the dock belonging to a friend and a former work colleague of mine and Dick's.

Annapolis is astern of us

On Monday, our plans were to make a short, overnight voyage, return to Annapolis, make last minute provisions, and leave.  But, it sure is nice being flexible!

By the time all of our chores were done on Monday, and we fueled, we decided to remain at the dock in Annapolis. 

Tuesday morning, our plans changed.  We made a final commissary run, picked up a few last minute odds and ends, paid the outstanding bills, returned the rental car, secured the vessel for sea, topped off with water, and waved farewell to the Annapolis Sailyard crew who came down to wish us bon voyage as we departed for Florida.  Yes, my friends, we are underway.

crowded waters off USNA

Tuesday was almost slick calm, and although we didn’t leave Annapolis until   1505, we only went 15 miles or so south to one of Dick’s favorite anchoring spots off the Rhode River, and anchored up for an early day.  That gave us a chance to reconfigure the dinghy for launching, enjoy a great dinner, and listen to the herons, ducks, geese, and crickets surrounding the little cover we were tucked into.  It was a wonderful evening.

Thomas Pt Shoal Light

MERCY's First Sunset at Anchor, Rhode River MD

Wednesday, at about 4:00, I rousted everyone so we could get underway before the weather blew in.  If I can’t sleep, why would anyone else want to?  Lol It gave us a chance to test out the vessel in the dark, and a little rough side sea before we pulled into the Solomons, about 42 miles further south, to a good anchorage to wait out the blow.  It is now 3:30pm, and it is dead calm.  I’m still looking for the 25-30 knot winds and the hail that was forecast, but I didn’t want to be on the Chesapeake with no good harbor to pull into in case it hit!

Dick Ring & Rudy Rudolph

We figured when we came in here, that we will be holed up here tomorrow with weather, and proceed southward when the wind dies again (probably Friday.)