Florida Keys Newfound Harbour to Tavernier Creek

Saturday, April 25, 2015

I woke up about 0515 and realized we still had enough tide to get over the controlling depths if we left ASAP (you know, time and tide don't wait on women, either)  We pulled away from the house at 0520.  It wasn't until evening that Ellen complained she hadn't had coffee all day... what a way to treat friends!

We took the shortcut across the flat, rather than taking the long way around the channel, and eased out Newfound Harbour #2 into Hawks Channel.

The weather was nice, with a SW wind about 12 knots, a direction we don't see a lot of in the Keys.  We cruised easterly up Hawk's Channel to Mozier Channel, turning to the north, and passing under the 7 mile bridge, with plans to run the old ICW through the "backcountry" of the Florida Keys.

As we got to the east end of Duck Key, I had the sudden realization that we'd left all the boat keys on the key rack by the door.  I called my neighbors, Katrina and Ritchie, and pleaded my case.  They went to the house, picked up the sets of keys, and drove them to Marathon.  What great friends!

Meanwhile, we back-tracked just a little, to anchor long enough to launch the RIB and run into Capt. Hooks, where they let me tie up to await my friends, who arrived within ten minutes of the time I had.  Isn't it nice to have friends?

The rest of the afternoon we continued down the familiar run through the backcountry, which never presents any problems with MERCY's 4' 4" draft.  I recalled with sadness that it was about a year ago that I ran this way from Miami with a couple of friends on board who had driven to Miami to make the trip home with me.  The man, a few months later, dropped dead of a stroke, leaving his wife of over forty years a widow. I smiled with the sweet memories of the trip, and remembered.  It is hard to lose friends...

As we neared Cowpens Cut, approaching Tavernier Creek, we met a USCG safeboat from Islamorada, who circled around and decided to board us.  I offered to turn into the wind to simplify the process.  They asked if I'd ever been boarded before, and I thought of the scores (hundreds?) of Coasties who had conducted boarding training scenarios on a couple of the gov't vessels that I'd captained during my seventeen year stint at USCG base in Key West.  

One of the young men looked warily at Mocha, Ellen's chocolate lab, who thought it was wonderful three young men would come for a visit.  My yellow lab, Mercy, just plopped down by another's feet like it was an every day occurrence.

The guys did a pretty thorough vessel boarding, looking in the engine room, and forward below deck compartments, as well as checking flares, life jackets, fire extinguishers, placards, our toilet and sewage system, and document papers.

After they left, we went through the cut and anchored south of Tavernier Creek, N25 00.504' W080 32.833' where we grilled steaks and watched the myriad of small boat traffic that flanked us until dark.

What a great start to another adventure!

Ramrod Key begins a new adventure

Friday, April 24, 2015

I realize a lot boaters come to the southern US to enjoy their winter vacation here, and then return home to work on their vessels.  The MERCY's home is here, and the cooler winter weather is my maintenance period.

My friend, Ellen, looked forward to the days she could retire and join me on an adventure, and we picked a good one for this year... let's go to Maine!  I tried to tell Ellen that retirement just means hard work you don't get paid for, which she's realizing as we've both been busy getting ready for our trip to the north, and well as all the annual house and landscape maintenance!

I don't talk about boat maintenance much, since there seems to not be a lot of real adventure in scrubbing and sanding and painting and waxing or in crawling in bilges running wiring for a washdown pump, taking the ceiling down to run new antenna cabling for a shorted out antenna, changing impellers, zincs, fuel lines, cooling systems, oil changes, air conditioning maintenance... I digress.

Mercy, my yellow lab, now has a friend aboard (besides Ellen, who she loves!) with Mocha, a chocolate lab.  Mocha is still learning the ropes of boating.

We had planned to leave on the afternoon tide today, but weren't quite ready.  We did, however, spend the first night with the four of us aboard, at the home dock, plugged into electric, and enjoying the air conditioning!  The bright side of missing our planned departure date?  Familiar dockage in calm waters, with full household amenities and showers just a few steps away!

Kayaking in the mangroves

I love exploring in Bahamas, and in the Everglades, and pretty much anywhere off the beaten path.  That means I also enjoy exploring the out of the way places not too far from my home.  Today, a friend invited me to join in some kayaking fun.  We took the kayaks into some of the mangrove creeks of the island of Big Pine Key, in the Florida Keys.  The wind was howling, which made it a great day to poke around in the creeks rather than paddling around the coast.

First step, find a few other like-minded friends!

 

Grab my favorite kayaking companion, and find a mangrove creek

 

 Convince someone else to go in front to knock down spider-webs!

 

And most importantly, HAVE FUN!

 

We explored a few different routes, out of visual range from each other, staying in touch in a simple way, befitting our maturity.  "Marco?"...."Polo!"

Manatees in the canals

I've been enjoying the manatees in the canals here the last couple of weeks.

We don't have manatee in our canal system every year, and I've never seen the numbers that have been in here this year.  The other unusual thing is the length of time that they have stayed.

This winter has been unusually warm (until this past week!) so the manatees aren't all congregated in their normal places.  I'm glad they are visiting us!

Little Shark River to Newfound Harbour

I awoke about 0400 and listened to the remarkable calm (before the storm!)  I decided I was ready to go home for a couple of reasons.  First, it was projected to rain.  Second, it was projected to be windy.  Third, it was projected to be cold.  Finally, I felt like I had enough time before the wind picked up....

I am an explorer at heart, and I had wanted to spend time in the Broad River system.  I didn't do it yesterday because of the rain.  I wouldn't do it today because of the rain, or for the next several days because of the seas.  I'd left my cold/damp wool long johns at home.  I needed to pick up a prescription.  If I went home today, I could go to the Miami Boat Show tomorrow.  For as long as the marine forecast was telling, winds were 25 or so.  I guess I was just too close to the house.

Don't get me wrong, I would have enjoyed being in the Little Shark system for awhile longer.

I checked my engine room, cranked up, and secured the cabin for sea while things warmed up.  The anchor found a limestone hole it didn't want to relinquish, and as I was standing on the bow pulpit, reattaching my bridle to put a strain to it, an owl screeched through the morning calm so loud that I just about jumped!  If anyone has ever heard a bobcat scream, I can tell you that it wasn't as scary as that, but trust me, this was not a who-who! 

I asked the Lord to direct me if I wasn't supposed to go, and heard nothing, so I continued in the anchor retrieval process and started out Little Shark River.

One of the sailboats that I had watched for the night before had come into the pass and anchored with no light, and I had not realized they were there.  I wish I had known... I crept past them in the pre-dawn. 

I made a point to stay inside the Everglades National Park boundary until daylight, so I didn't have to dodge crab traps, and then ran a little faster than normal to make the flats north of Marathon ahead of the projected 30 kt winds. 

The winds hit me after I was in the protected water above Marathon, but I took on spray after I turned to the west upon clearing the Bahia Honda bridge.  I thought it funny that the only three boats I saw on the south side were two touristy-fishing boats, probably out of the Big Pine Fishing Camp, and this rather sizeable yacht that was running as shallow as he could to the north, just like me!  It seemed such a shame to take on salt spray after a few days of rain had me so nice and un-salted, fresh.

 

I pulled into my home channel on a pretty high tide, and scurried to secure the Whaler close, and hightail it to the house in the 28kt winds.

Mercy waited for the OK to disembark and race around the yard.  I checked the house, turned on the water heater, and washed the boats down.

I pretended I was still underway, and went to bed at dark.


I love being gone, but, I love being home!

Newfound Harbor to Shark River

1/31/13
Well, my boat adventures of late have been near the house. My 37 Nordic Tug is ready for another adventure, as am I!

I anchored in Newfound Harbor for an early start to Shark River. There is a very short weather window between the heavy easterly winds of the past few days, and the heavy NW winds due this afternoon. I would like to be underway during the night, but there are SO many crab floats, that I decide to wait until it will at least be daylight, going under the Bahia Honda bridge and into Florida Bay.

As I exited Newfound Harbor to run through Hawks Channel to Bahia Honda, the wind was already in the SW. Looking at the weather radar on the iPad, I knew the NW winds would catch me before I made Little Shark River.

I hugged the coast a little tighter to block the winds that had gone N rather than the predicted 30 kt NW. Since I stayed in about ten feet of water much of the way, it never really got rough, just choppy. By the time I pulled into the Little Shark River, the MERCY's deck was covered in grass, much like a kids wagon that has been parked downwind of someone mowing the lawn.

I love pulling into the protected creeks of the Everglades. Even with a small craft advisory in Floriday Bay, the anchorage here is tranquil, and deserted I might add. I went up the river about a mile to anchor, rinsing the grass off the decks as I idled in.

After securing the MERCY, we took the 19' Whaler exploring around for about an hour before returning to grill some pork chops.

Around sunset, the river became a flyway for flocks of ibis, as well as some pelicans, and a few other species. It was a little dark for my automatic sensor on my camera, but you get the idea.

Tomorrow evening I pick up two friends in Flamingo with the Whaler, to take the MERCY up into Tarpon Bay for a day.

Channel Five bridge to Newfound Harbor

In the morning, with the winds blowing 15-20 out of the NE, I picked up anchor from Matecumbe Bight, I decided to save exploring Indian Key for another day, and went out under the Channel Five bridge to run towards home in the lee of the Keys.  I had a day of winds to my aft, and following seas.

Newfound Harbor is my home turf, and I arrived at a low tide, so chose to anchor up for awhile and straighten up the boat a bit.  If you are visiting Newfound Harbour, give the #2 marker a wide berth coming up, and you'll have more water.  There is a deep, well marked channel that parallels the famous Little Palm Island, and then slowly turns to the north.  I often see vessels anchored in that area, but, there are much better anchorages.  There is enough current running along the channel to turn you with the tide.  If you turn to the west at #5, you can follow the deep water around to the adjacent bay that has much less current and seas, and your vessel will tend to lay with the wind.  If you are going to be there a couple of days, my favorite spot to anchor is just south of the little island that is SE of Ramrod Key, around 24 38.155' and 81 24.076' in a little mucky, great holding bottom.

I don't like the holding in Coupon Bight, as there is a then layer of mud/silt over rock, plus, you need to know how to get in there!  Some folks anchor in the deep water off of Picnic Island, but suffer from the wakes of all the passing boats.  Picnic Island 24 38.175' 81 23.665 is a local hang-out.  The island is a great place to play ashore, and there is a sandbar extending to the SW that is a great place to hang out and visit, play volleyball, let the kids romp, etc.  It is also one of the favorite drinking spots, so the clientle changes with the time of day.  Don't try to approach Picnic from the east, approach it from the western channel.

Islamorada, Key Largo, and Jewfish Creek

I continued my journey through the "back" from my anchorage at Matecombe Bay through the ICW and up the Keys puttering around.

I remember years ago, my husband and I were stopped at the Jewfish Creek bridge, and I was straining to see around the curve as a vessel departed from my view.  I told him that I wanted to go through the creek.  When he asked me why, I told him because I hadn't been there before, and asked if he had.  He assured me he had, and that I hadn't missed anything.

When they built the new bridge, I was saddened as I could see that the creek wasn't very long, but, I'd still always wanted transit the creek anyhow.  Even though I planned to anchor off Key Largo, I went through the Creek into Card Sound, checked out some depths around the channel, and came back under the bridge to anchor for the evening off of Key Largo. 

The wind had calmed, and the seas were glassy, and enjoyed the sounds of a band wafting across the waters.  At some point a really bad lead guitar joined them, and detracted  from the music so much, I used that as a good excuse to watch a movie.

In the morning, I started back down the Keys, but stopped and reanchored in the north side of Tarpon Basin so I could explore some of the mangrove creeks of Everglades National Park with the 19' Whaler.  I would have anchored here the night before, but anticipated mosquito hordes as the winds dropped, which is why I chose my anchorage next to the sprayed areas of Key Largo.

Exploring by dinghy or kayak?  East of #42, you can take the mangrove creek east until you hit a T, then go right until you are in Tarpon Basin again.  Even more fun, turn to the SW at #42, and explore.  If I had been in the kayak, or even the inflatable, I suspect I could have got through to the basin I was anchored in, but with the Whaler, I eventually ran out of room (ht in one direction, beam in another)  It is absolutely gorgeous in there!

After two hours of plunking around, I returned to the Nordic tug and continued back down the Keys through the Gulf side.  In spite of all the warnings I saw on Active Captain, I never encountered any water that was less than 5.5' 

I anchored off the Lorelei in Islamorada and went back to exploring with the Whaler.  From the anchorage you can go through a clearly marked channel to the SW into Little Basin, and clearly see the Worldwide Sportsman, and the Islamorada Fish Company.  I docked the Whaler at their dock and enjoyed lunch there.  There were only a couple of boats at the dock, and the folks at the restaurant told me it was ok to stay docked there while visiting the store.  I always enjoy looking in the store, and actually made it out without buying anything.  Probably because my visit was short....

The sky turned that tornado-green color and the wind picked up as the forecasted cold front hit.  I decided Id move the MERCY on down a couple of miles to anchor in the corner of Matecumbe Bight where I had previously explored, and could get some shelter from the N winds that were forecast to go NE. 

The wind howled, but the holding is good in the Bight.

Newfound Harbour to Matecombe Bay

I spend a LOT of time in the “backcountry” in the Lower Keys, with the Nordic Tug, the 19’ Whaler, and the kayaks.  Over the years I have explored a lot of great places.  When I had the Miss Vi, with her 30” draft, I had run the “inside” of the Keys up as far as Long Key, but, I’d never been above that on the Gulf side, I’d always taken the Atlantic side with the larger, commercial vessels.  This past week I fixed that!

 

I knew that I had a few days forecast of unseasonably calm winds and warm weather, and it was too good an opportunity to pass up.  So, I packed up the Nordic tug, hooked the tow line to the Whaler, and headed out.

 

I knew that the Gulf Stream was close in, and decided I’d go north on the Stream, and come back through the back.  Since the trip was pretty much spontaneous, however, I changed my mind when the Stream was rolling more than I wanted, and the wind was blowing harder than forecast.  I headed for Mosier Channel and went under the 7 mile bridge, (63’ vertical clearance) continuing to the north. 

 

Drawing 4’, I had no trouble cutting through between Marathon and the ICW channel, ducking between Rachel Bank and Marathon.  I joined the ICW just north of Grassy Key Bank, and followed the marked channel to the NE as far as Matecumbe Bight, where I anchored in excellent holding. 

 

I explored with the Whaler, and found that I could tuck up into the eastern corner of the Bight with the Nordic Tug if I needed to, (good info to know on the way back!)  It is a good place to get away from a NE wind, the prevailing winter winds direction in the Keys. There is a creek through the mangroves, a pretty ride in the Whaler, to Lignumvitae Channel.  I never saw less than 6’, but the channel is narrow, and the branch overhang would prohibit taking the trawler through.  A right turn would take you to Robbie’s Marina, and a turn to the left would take you to Lignumvitae Key.

 

Lignumvitae Key had three mooring balls that I saw, on the northwestern side.  Shell Key had no moorings that I saw.  (12/12)

Underway for the Bahamas

Today I finally got underway, heading for the Bahamas! Pastor Carey and Doug Grace dropped by on the way to Miami at 0530 to pray for God's blessings on the trip.

I hauled the furntiture in off the proch, and put the last couple of shutters up, got gas for the compressor, and did about 500 other things this morning. My good friend Rudy, came over and helped me with some last minute stuff, and getting the tow on the Whaler rigged. I was underway with the tide at 0935.

The weather this morning has kind of rainy, and the winds are probably 12-13 out of the east. I'm running up Hawks channel until the Keys turn more northerly, and then I'll either jump across the Stream, or anchor for the night further up the Keys, depending upon the weather. If I don't repost today, you know I crossed the Stream.

All equipment is functioning well, and though not calm, the seas are manageable, and the forecast looks about the same for tomorrow. Tonight I'll tuck in behind Riding Rocks to anchor and sleep for a couple of hours until good daylight to cross the bank I love crossing the shallow bank in a slow boat (good thing!) to enjoy looking at the diversity of stuff!

All equipment is functioning well, and though not calm, the seas are manageable, and the forecast looks about the same for tomorrow. Tonight I'll tuck in behind Riding Rocks to anchor and sleep for a couple of hours until good daylight to cross the bank I love crossing the shallow bank in a slow boat (good thing!) to enjoy looking at the diversity of stuff!

All equipment is functioning well, and though not calm, the seas are manageable, and the forecast looks about the same for tomorrow. Tonight I'll tuck in behind Riding Rocks to anchor and sleep for a couple of hours until good daylight to cross the bank I love crossing the shallow bank in a slow boat (good thing!) to enjoy looking at the diversity of stuff!


Update: All is well, and I'm crossing the stream this evening. Can't beleive I've got coverage this far out!

For people who like to be on the water, a Gulf Stream crossing is always interesting, if you like to look at fish, birds, seaweed, and beautiful blue water.  I’ve always figured if you are bored, it is because you aren’t paying attention!  At one point during the night crossing, the phosphorous was everywhere in the water, sparkling its brilliant green glow lights as our wake moved the phytoplankton.

Anybody remember the old video game Frogger?  The point of the game was to get your frog across the stream/highway/etc without getting smashed by a truck, ate by an alligator, etc.  I was never any good at it.  I think about that and laugh now, as I’m crossing the stream, dodging ships, and not letting the current wipe me off the page.

As much as I enjoy being on the water, by the time I got to Riding Rocks, after pulling an all-nighter, I was ready to be there!  There was too much swell to comfortably anchor, and I wanted to see Riding Rocks up close, so I waited until daylight, snapped a photo or two, and continued on a little ways across the Bahamas Bank for an hour or so before I anchored for a few hours of sleep.

At some point during the transit, the pressure switch (I determined later) stuck, and when the fresh water pump exceeded the pressure allowed by one connection, it blew the hose off, and pumped all my fresh water into the bilge.  It was at that point that I decided to head to Morgan’s Bluff, Andros, where water is free, and I could clear customs without paying a marina to do it.

So after a few hours  of sleep on the bank, I continued onwards to Morgan’s Bluff.  Darkness caught me once again, but rather than sleep in the open, on the bank, I continued in to Morgan’s Bluff, with its well-marked (by Bahamian standards) channel, and anchored just west of Joanne Point @ 25 10.659N 078 02.443W about 2200.

In the morning, I took the Whaler into the commercial dock to find out where I could tie up to clear Customs and Immigration, and went back to fetch the Mercy.  I docked at the commercial dock @0900, and filled my water tank while I waited for the Dockmaster to arrive.  She called Customs for me, and by 1045 had cleared Customs.  I spent another bit of time  pulling the water pump apart, cleaning the pressure switch, assembling it back, and readjusting the pressure.