Pocomoke City, MD to Tangier Island, VA

Wednesday, 17 June 2015

This morning we left the dock at 0650 to ride the current down the river.  The Pocomoke River, says Wikipedia, is one of the deepest rivers for its width in the US.

We went past the geese, which we have learned to look cross-ways at from the locals, numerous eagles (how many dozen eagles does one see and photograph?) and hawks!  There were bunches of hawks, some of which I have yet to identify!  We saw a deer, that never moved when we passed, but, turned to look at us.  

We made sure the screens were closed as we went through the lower marsh grass, and didn't think twice about the channel, even though we went out the shallowest spots at MLW.  I think I say a 5'6" spot, though only for a second.

We went out the dug canal (above) and down the Pacomoke Sound until we entered Tangier Sound, and turned to enter Tangier from the east.

Twenty-five years ago I worked on the Dredge McFarland with a few men from Tangier Island.  As soon as we arrived at Parks Marina, we were greeted by 84 year old (next month) Capt. Milton Parks.  I asked about my friends I hadn't seen in 25 years.  He told me he'd take me to see them, and he was true to his word!  This evening we went to see one of the men, and we had a great visit!

I'm getting ahead of myself, however.... We arrived in Tangier and met the legendary Capt. Milton Parks.  He is active, charming, and a wealth of local history.  He was at the USCG in Key West in 1954, before going on to Miami.  He returned and worked as a waterman for years, and handles the "tourist" dock in Tangier.  What a nice man!  He told me stories of dredging for crabs (no longer allowed) and showed me around the shipyard on the island, where his daughter, the island's doctor has a medical facility, and the landing strip where emergency medical cases are taken to Salisbury.  

I'm really having trouble with this timeline, as my visit with Danny, from the dredge, and golf cart ride with Capt. Parks all around the island, were in the evening.  In the afternoon, after our arrival, we met a couple with a Nordic tug, from Patrick AFB,   We went together with them, and rented a four-seater golf cart to tour the island.  It took us a leisurely hour.

After the tourist boats left, with their accompanying folks, the locals came out, and lots of young people gathered at the ice cream shop.  The local church was having services, and the whole island was alive with the residents out and about, enjoying the sudden cool down in weather.

Tangier Island is a great place to visit, as many tourists have discovered.  The people on the island are friendly, and we saw bunches of cats, dogs, and kids.  It is a great peak at a life style of hard working, God-fearing, watermen, who work crabs, oysters, fish, and opportunities, as the seasons allow.

There is no AT*T on the island, and no Data connection through Verizon, so the blog will just have to wait a day.  It is worth it.

Pocomoke City, MD to Snow Hill, MD

Tuesday, 16 June 2015

We spent the day with the MERCY resting peacefully at the free for two days municipal dock, with free water and 50 amp electric.  The crew, however, stayed too busy to rest peacefully!  So much to see, so little time...

I was walking around before 0600, trying to figure what great sights we could enjoy during the day.  I wandered down the dock to get photos of the geese.  Every time I hear geese mentioned by folks where there are an abundance, it is with complaints about the mess they make, their noise, and I've heard the comment a couple of times, "no natural predators."  I can attest to the mess on the fixed wooden docks here, but, being a visitor who isn't used to geese, I enjoyed watching them.  I don't know when hunting season opens, but some of these neighbors look as though they could readily shoot a few dozen in their yards!

We called town hall upon  our arrival last night, and were asked to come register in the morning at the local town hall.  We walked around the quiet town until we could do that at 0900.  Free dockage, 50amp electric, and water, for two nights.  Only $20/day after that.  The water has a little sulfur smell, so we didn't put any in our tanks, but, this is NOT a complaint!  There is an abundance of fixed wooden docks, with pretty new power towers with the 50amp.  The docks, as you are coming upriver are tie alongside, with a sign that says shallow draft, then some short slips perpendicular to the current, then a few more tie alongside, with the last few in front of the restaurant lacking power.  Then there is a low (4' or less) bascule bridge that opens on request from 0600 to 2200 during the cruising season.  The bridge was built in 1929, and is a historic site.  On the far side of the bridge, there are hundreds more feet of tie alongside fixed wooden docks.  That areas is bordered by a city park.  

There is a nature trail that extends under the fixed bridge.  We didn't walk that because the town was setting up for their big "Cypress Festival" that begins Wednesday evening, June 17th.  There were folks in the area at the end of the park setting up what looks to be a fair-like amusement area with the fixings!

The little town is pretty, has a lot of good history, and has some of the friendliest people we've met.  Several people asked us if we needed a ride to the store, and one couple offered us use of their vehicle.  We declined all offers, but, nice, friendly people.  We met a couple last night who own (3rd generation) a bridal store downtown.  We stopped in to say, "hi," but, weren't shopping!  (What gorgeous dresses!)

The skyline is full of church steeples, and we enjoyed walking around looking at several churches, many with newer buildings alongside their historic ones.

I always enjoy walking through older cemeteries, and this town hosts several, with graves I saw back to the Civil War times.  There may be some older, as this town is rich in history, dating back much earlier.

We took the inflatable under the bascule bridge, and up the Pocomoke River another 12 miles or so, past Shad Landing, and up to Snow Hill. I mention those two places as there is dockage at each.  Much of the area to the north side of the river is bordered by a Pocomoke River (MD) State Park.  Shad Landing (MD) State Park is on the south side. 

The river is beautiful, fresh water, and surrounded by gorgeous trees, including cypress.  Further up, there are several tributaries and some fresh water marsh.  There is a lot of waterfowl, and the area has an interesting contrast of duck houses and duck blinds.  We saw several eagles, though not the dozens we saw yesterday.  We saw several types of herons, and other large birds.  It was a pretty trip, which though we had the draft to take with the trawler, was a faster, pleasant trip with the RIB.  We passed a couple of fishermen, and several kayaks.  There is a canoe livery at Snow Hill, and I'm told great canoe/kayaking in that area.

Snow Hill has a large municipal dock, but the one at Pocomoke City fit our likes a little better.

We returned to Pocomoke City, and went to the Delmarva Discovery Center.  Delmarva is the term for the Deleware/Maryland/Virginia peninsular, of which the Pocomoke River is its primary watershed.  The Discovery Center is in the process of upgrading its already interesting exhibits.  There are live reptiles and fish there, allowing you to see the local critters up close.  Those fish yesterday, if you were reading the blog, are long-nosed gar.  There are also Maryland terrapin, and a few other turtles and snakes.  They have a beaver dam that was relocated, and built dry, giving kids and adventurous, flexible adults a chance to crawl in and look around.  There are taxidermy animals of the local wildlife, in various settings.

The director, who we'd met yesterday, walked us through the whole facility, excited about the upcoming plans for new exhibits, including a river otter habitat with two otters, hopefully coming by the end of the year.

The center has interpretive displays of the historical aspects of the community.  There is a dome-shaped wigwam inviting you inside as a centerpiece for that interpretive area.  One of my favorites was a vessel that transitioned the displays from waterfront to onboard a ship.  If you walk up to the helm, there is a large tv screen showing a video of the Pocomoke River.  Imagine my delight when I realized you could "steer" the vessel with its steering wheel, and move the display.  The kid in me had great fun climbing around the boat, the wigwam, the beaver den, etc.  We came away better educated to the history and culture of the local area, as well as the native wildlife, plants, fish, and bird, and the significance of the local watershed.

I think the entrance fee was $8 with discounts for seniors, kids, military, coupons, or if you had a receipt from the Riverside Restaurant.  The Center accepts donations for funding.  

There is a WalMart Supercenter and multiple restaurants about a mile away, but we stayed in the downtown area.  Had we gone elsewhere, we might have had a different perspective of this quiet, friendly, beautiful little town.

Gwynn Island to Pocomoke

Monday, 15 June, 2015

This morning we departed our anchorage at Gwynn Island to continue our journey.  <Note to Pastor, don't let a side-trip become a destination... there's got to be a message there!>

As we went back under the now familiar swing bridge, we spotted an egret nest, complete with young.  It had been there all along, we'd just been too busy to notice, appreciate it.  Since we didn't get a photo, you'll just have to imagine it... The bridge swings open and shut multiple times daily... The osprey family poked their heads up, and looked around as the bridge swung, seemingly enjoying their ride, and their new perspective of the neighborhood!  I commented to the bridge tender that I liked his ospreys, and he told me he thought they enjoy the ride!

We went out Hills Cut, and out the Piankatank River, and crossed the Chesapeake Bay to the east side to explore in hot, calm, sultry weather.  

We had found a river that we wanted to check out, and I'm so glad we did!  We went up the Pocomoke River, to the town of Pocomoke.  Wait, I'm getting ahead of myself... I'll write about the town tomorrow, and the friendly people, and the free municipal dock, with free water, and 50 amp electric... 

The trip across the Bay was calm.  The conditions were a little hazy, and I'm glad I have AIS readily displayed on my plotter, as well as listed through the VHF.  AIS enables you to see vessels (who are transmitting) position, speed, course, CPA, name, vessel information, where they are going to cross your path, their radio MMSI number (think telephone number)  It makes life so simple to select them, call them on the radio, and confirm their intentions if there are any doubts. I'm even happier that the big guys can see little ole me!

We crossed south of Tangier Island, south of Watt's Island, up Pocomoke Sound, across "the Muds", through a dug canal, and up the Pocomoke River.  I had read reports on Active Captain about shallow water.  I suspect those folks had strayed out of the channel.  Tugs and barges routinely use this stretch, and they draw far more than I do.  I will say, it is easy to stray out of the channel if you don't pay attention.  The answer is remember to stay in the middle of the channel.  I regress...

The Pocomoke River is a naturally deep river.  The entrance is marsh grass.  Ellen says all marsh looks the same, but not to me!  The grass here is different than further south.  The flies are ever present, and appear kin to those further south.  I'm so glad we have screens!  

It was so HOT today... how hot was it?  You have to supply your own jokes here, it was hot!  The river made many serpentine turns, and some of them would allow a cool breeze through the side doors.  All fans were fanning.  We did not succumb to running the generator and the air conditioning.  I feared stopping to swim, by being sucked dry by blood-sucking biting flies.  That, and Ellen can't get back on the boat....

The further up the river, the more interesting it became.  Pines began to appear in the higher ground of the marsh grass.  Gorgeous old farms began to appear.  The river passes through Maryland and Virginia.  Poultry farms are common in the flat ground.  Oyster, shrimp, and crab boats near the river entrance changed to recreational boats at farms.

There were so many eagles that we lost count of them.  Every dead tree had an eagle perched on its loft, as well as many living trees that they were resting on their branches.  We saw at least a couple of dozen eagles!  What a great view!   And geese!  The folks here complain about all the goose and duck uh, residue, that covers everything.  Geese are everywhere!  Red-wing blackbirds, swallows, etc.

When we got to Pocomoke, we requested a bridge opening (the bridge is only 4' clearance, and were told that due to an accident, it would be awhile to clear traffic.  Fortunately, the city has FREE docks on both sides of the bridge, so we stopped on the downstream side.

I called Town Hall, who you must register with to dock, and they told me to drop by in the morning.  They also said they weren't sure if the dock we were at was theirs, or belonged to the restaurant.  I asked the restaurant manager on duty, and she thought it belonged to the city.  I concluded it belonged to the city, since the electrical post matches those of the city's, even though there is no number on these!  The fixtures are new, with 50 amp service only.  Bring an adapter if you don't have 50amp!  

I'll write more about the town tomorrow, and the great folks I've already met here...