The Great Dismal Swamp

When I woke up this morning, there were several more boats in the anchorage, and a cruise ship had pulled in directly across the channel from us.  One of the most interesting additions to me, of boats arriving after dark, was a 37’ Nordic Tug that looked very similar to mine.  We pulled alongside and talked to Joan on the SAWDUST, which is the 37’ Nordic Tug #58 (MERCY is #57) How cool is that?!  We traded cell numbers, and hope to meet up further south.

Tug SAWDUST, not MERCY

We waited over an hour for a bridge opening, and there were 23 boats packed in close to catch the opening.  One scheduled opening had been missed because of a train, which meant the adjacent railroad bridge was closed.

Rudy and Mercy relaxing on deck

We crossed under Interstate 64 and swung hard to starboard to enter Deep Creek, enroute to the Great Dismal Swamp.  The lockmaster was calling vessels on the VHF, and carefully sandwiching everybody in.  He kept calling other boats behind us, saving us for last, since we appeared very maneuverable.  Then we pulled in the starboard side of the lock, and the lockmaster closed the port gate.  Then he had us turn sideways in the lock so he could close the starboard gate.  We had twenty boats in the lock!  I’ve been through a lot of locks, but this is the first one I’ve ever gone through side-ways!

In the Deep Creek (VA) Lock

Then we proceeded into the Great Dismal Swamp, following the whole string of sailboats and powerboats.  Ten miles before the visitor  center, we saw a bulkhead on the bank, turned around, pulled alongside,  shut down, and went ashore and stretched our legs for a while, letting  Mercy the dog enjoy some interesting woods smells.  When we got underway a half hour later, it seemed as though we had the “ditch” to ourselves, enjoying the swamp experience rather than clutching in and out of gear at the back of the southerly migration.

Pitstop in the Dismal Swamp Canal

The trees are gorgeous along the banks of the waterway.  The canal was dug by hand, largely by slaves, back in the days of George Washington, who owned land in the swamp, and was interested in digging a canal to float lumber out.  The trees are full of wild grape vines, whose leaves are turning, as we as some color in a few of the trees as well.  The waterway is narrow, and in some places not much more than 6 feet deep, with occasional fallen tree limbs to dodge.  It is a fun trip. 

We crossed into North Carolina, and had a welcome sign on the water.

We arrived at the visitor center about 4:45, just as the last boat was getting tied up.  So, tonight we are outboard five boats, with three or four rows of boats ahead of us.  We have the canal blocked off.  I think my Whaler could pass between the MERCY and the far bank!

MERCY rafted on the far left

We met many of the boaters tied up here, and got a great boat tour from the gorgeous trawler alongside us, the IZZY R, with Jeff, Izzy, and Ben, the dog.  I also walked over and met a lady on a 34’ sailboat, single-handing south.  Her name is Christine Kline, and she is a published author whose heroine is a female tug boat captain with a black lab!  She writes murder mysteries, and gave me an autographed book!  I can hardly wait to start reading!

Most of the boats are pulling out in the morning for the first lock opening, but we’re only going to pull away to allow others to leave, giving us the opportunity to go see the visitor’s center.