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Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Andros, the eastern coast­­


 

 
Andros is the largest island in the Bahamas, with a sparse, friendly population, and not a lot of tourists.  The third largest barrier reef in the world runs along her eastern coast, and then the depths drop off rapidly into the Tongue of the Ocean.  The depths can rise to the surface from 35 feet in a boat length.  The diving is spectacular.  I am, however, dismayed at the death of many of the corals there in the past 20 years.  If you like vertical relief, Andros is a great place to dive.

 

Twenty years ago, I marveled how the largest elkhorn coral formations I had ever seen had been knocked over in a large storm, and lay sprawled across the bottom like a petrified forest. 

 

I tried to survey a small quadrant each year for the biodiversity of corals in an area just north of middle bight.  If you are into different types of coral, this is a great place to dive.

 

The island is a remarkable karst system dotted with an abundance of blue holes, many of which are tidal.  The spring (blowing out) is often fresh water, cold, and clear.  Where the salt water and the fresh water meet, it makes for a murky meld called a halocline.  When the tide turns, and these holes siphon (current going into the hole) it can be with such a velocity that it creates a whirlpool.  Be careful around these holes.  These holes can be dangerous, even to trained cave divers, who may not be familiar with the types of changing currents encountered there.  I used to come to Andros for blue hole exploration, but at this point in my life, I can satisfy my adventurous spirit in other areas, without having to go where no man has gone before…  I do, however, enjoy treks back into a couple of my favorite passageways.

 

Andros is a great place for folks who like to explore, and anchor.  There is some farming on the northern end of the island, which is a nice place to get some fresh veggies.

 

The entrance to Morgan’s Bluff is clearly marked, and that is where I cleared Customs and Immigration last year.  Fresh water is readily available.  Until recent years, a water tanker ship used to come into Morgan’s Bluff, and transport water to Nassau.

 

Fresh Creek had a marina that I used to visit every year.  The current does not change there at the same time as the tide, which always messed with my brain there more than other places.  I never used shore power with the old boat, and water was free.  Never count on fuel availability.

 

As I mentioned earlier, I used to clear Customs and Immigration by docking at the government dock at Driggs Hill, and getting the officials from Congo Town.  I haven’t been into Driggs Hill in ten years. 

 

This past year, I spent my time cruising to some islands I hadn’t visited before, and sort of ran out of time, needing to get my cousin back to school.  I hope to visit some of my favorite anchorages off Andros later this year.

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