Thanksgiving in the Keys

I am thankful for all my friends, family, and the wonderful, interesting people who enter my life.

I've been helping around the church this week.  We packed and distributed 100 Thanksgiving boxes to needy families in our community.  How do you determine who is "needy?"  I suppose a lot of folks would want to help someone "deserving."  I also figure none of us want to feel like we are being taken advantage of.

Our boxes had a lot more stuff than I could list, designed to feed a large family or share with others.  Each box had a turkey, a roasting pan, yams, stuffing, green beans, canned vegetables, cranberries, pie crusts, pumpkin filling, eggs, butter, cream, and all kinds of stuff, of which I'm not really sure.  (I wasn't packing the boxes, I was helping somewhere else.)

Some of the boxes were destined for folks who had been suggested to us by those who knew of families who had faced unexpected financial or medical hardships, who were silently struggling.

About half of the boxes were delivered. 

Some of the folks came in ahead of time and signed up for a box.  The Thanksgiving boxes the last couple of years have developed quite a following.  We had been turning away applicants for over a week, when we had reached our 100 box fund capacity.

There was a procedure in place to pick up a box.  You had to come into the office, show an id, and get a ticket to pick up the box, which was over in the fellowship hall where our packers were steadily working.  The ID was compared to the ID listed on the previously filled out form.

It was interesting, and heart breaking watching folks come and go, and those who aggressively asserted their rights to a box.   We had the full spectrum of personalities.  We had a few folks try to by pass the system.  We had one or two try to pick up an extra box.  We had a lot of folks who hadn't signed up for the box, they just wanted one. 

Most importantly, we served some really grateful people, who were thankful that from another's bounty they can share in a good Thanksgiving meal.

I named my boat MERCY to remind me (who is more inclined to call for justice) that if it were not for God's mercy, I would have nothing.  God didn't judge me, or declare me ineligible for His program, He just opened His plan to me.... and to all of the other undeserving people.  He put a plan in place for me to follow... and I have that opportunity to comply.  I can't by-pass His system, and I certainly can't bully my way into His mercy.

Tonight, I'm really thankful in the Keys.

How do you eat an elephant?

I know a lot of you were following MERCY's adventures as we were traveling in the Bahamas.  Many of you have emailed to check on me... several from folks I've never met.  I'm grateful for all you folks who are traveling with me in the blog. 

Due to problems with a broken Wi-Fi amp antenna, (which Randy Nial at Land and Sea Wi-Fi bent over backwards to get me back in business.... what a great service company!) and difficulties accessing internet where I was adventuring off the beaten path.  Oh, and let me blame having too much fun with too many friends, quality time with my dog, maintenance projects, and .... the excuses went on as the blog backed up.

My mom fell, broke her hip, had difficulty in surgery, and passed away while I was in the Bahamas.

I returned to the States, and went to spend a month with my Dad, whose grief over losing a spouse of 61 years was almost unbearable.

The growth along the canal needed trimming, the boat needed some projects, my freezer was lobster-less, requiring my immediate snorkeling attention.  I had a back log of commitments at my church, and...

The excuses and reasons kept piling up, as I got further and further behind on life's responsibilities, and the somewhat frivolous blog.

Have you ever been there?  So far behind on a project or a goal that you sort of give up on it?

A friend asked me, "How do eat an elephant?" 

"I dunno," I responded as I thought, "This friend does not realize the significance of all I've just said."

"One bite at a time."

My friend is right of course, make small achievable goals.  Chew, swallow, accomplished!  One bite, anyhow... So, my commitment is a somewhat small, achievable goal.  I will work on posting, editing, posting photos, re-formatting to make this thing more read-able, 15 minutes a day.

You may not see much as I try to fill in so much of the great adventures of the past, unless you are noticing changes in past posts and photo adds.  This blog is about places and people, and adventures, not about maintenance and difficulties.  We all have them. 

Hope you'll enjoy some of the updates!

Back to Florida

We crossed the Stream Monday night, arriving at Newfound Harbour at low tide on Tuesday night.  We anchored to wait on the tide, and ran into the house about 130 on Wednesday morning.  Will update blog eventually....

Black Point Homecoming

Sat 8/3/13


I suppose one of the sadder things to me about the Bahamas, is that when kids grow up, most of them leave the family islands, to find jobs somewhere else. Many of the Black Point residents that remain either operate their own businesses, or work on some of the neighboring cays. The school here only goes through the eighth grade, then students must either move somewhere else with older brothers, sisters, aunts, cousins, etc. or a few go to boarding school. Many move on with their lives...
Once a year, many of the family islands have their Homecoming. What a great time to re-unite with your family, the kids you grew up with, see the neighbors, and stay in touch with the community.
For the week that I've been here people have been painting their houses, cleaning their yards, trimming their plants, and sprucing up in general.
The local mailboat, the Lady Francis, has been dockside for the week, having brought in some class C sailboats, as well as provisions for the island. She uses her boom to place the masts on the boats, and swing the booms down to the crews below.
This morning, shortly after daybreak, I heard Bahamian music getting louder, and looked to see the Captain C arriving with a few hundred people on deck, and a live DJ ramping things up. The boat blew her air horn for a good 2 minutes, and the folks were cheering. The residents of Black Point hustled to the dock to greet their loved ones.
As soon as daybreak, planes started taking off and landing from the daylight only runway. Boats from other islands began arriving as the Captain C offloaded a few more C class racing boats.
The anchorage that I've had to myself for a week, now has one yacht, one visiting sailboat, two Bahamian vessels from other islands to house their racing crews, two other trawlers, and the Briney Bug just came in! The quiet little little village has turned into a bustle of activity.
The class C boats sailed to Staniel Cay, and raced back. I looked in vain for some of the kids I'd promised rides to, mingled in with the crowd. I picked up a couple of cruisers off the American Tug Carlye, Clay and Rita K, and Jill off the Briney Bug, and we got some pictures from the midst of the sailboats crossing the finish line.
They had another race later in the afternoon, through the midst of the anchored boats, and around a triangular course.
During the day, Rudy and Jill, off the Briney Bug, and I went ashore and ate at one of the booths. I ate ribs and mac and cheese and peas and rice, and beets that Raymond had been bragging on his mom's cooking all week. It was pretty good!
This evening, as I sit on the bow, typing this, I can hear a trumpet, a tuba, and a trombone, maybe, warming up. I can't see them, but they are near the gov't dock rather than with the festivities at the regatta dock. It sounds like parade material. ohh, definitely band material.. may have to go check this out.


Don't get me wrong, there is a live DJ at the regatta pier, loud enough I reached my limit of endurance pretty quickly. Wow! This band sounds great. I can't figure out where they are. I can see the dock, the road...

My mom passed this morning

How Long is a Lifetime?





How long is a lifetime? It is one of the mysteries of earth that we have no answer. It is never long enough for those who have loved and cherished that life. No time seems long enough for us to have loved completely, and our hearts ache with the love that we have left to give.





It is a mystery how some can fulfill their appointed lifetime in measurements of minutes, hours, months, or days, while for others the measure spans years or decades. Regardless of the allotment, it is never long enough for those left. How long is a lifetime? The answer leaves us mourning.





How long is life? It is one of the mysteries of heaven that we have an answer. Life is eternal. For we know that if our earthly house of this tabernacle were dissolved, we have a building of God, a house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens.. For we walk by faith, not by sight: We are confident, I say, and willing rather to be absent from the body, and to be present with the Lord. (2 Cor. 5:1, 7-8) How long is a life? The answer gives us comfort.





1Now we know that if the earthly tent we live in is destroyed, we have a building from God, an eternal house in heaven, not built by human hands. 7We live by faith, not by sight. 8We are confident, I say, and would prefer to be away from the body and at home with the Lord (NIV)





Blessed be God, even the Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, the Father of mercies, and the God of all comfort: Who comforts us in all our tribulation, that we may be able to comfort them which are in trouble, by the comfort wherewith we ourselves are comforted of God. 2 Corinthians 1:3-4 KJV




3Praise be to the God and Father of our Lord Jesus Christ, the Father of compassion and the God of all comfort, 4who comforts us in all our troubles, so that we can comfort those in any trouble with the comfort we ourselves have received from God.(NIV)

Black Point airport

Saturday, July 27th





Today has certainly been an interesting day. It began by Vicki and I making our way to tie up at the government dock and walk to Black Point Airport, under a mile away. We were the first ones there, and watched as folks began gathering. A couple of private planes came in, and took a few passengers, leaving at least ten people for the little 8 seater plane that was also destined to go to Staniel to pick up more folks.





There was a lot of discussion about splitting up a party of 8 that included 4 kids, but Vicki managed to be on the plane.





Altumus, the bar owner from Little Farmers Cay got off the plane, I waved to him, got a hug, and I told him I'd give him a ride to Little Farmers. We watched Vicki's plane start to leave. As the pilot was taxi-ing out, however, he hit one of the temporary runway lights, sending it flying, and bending his left prop on a two prop plane. We watched as all the folks on the plane got out, and began pushing the plane in a circle so it could motor back towards the building.





The group all stayed around the airport as Flamingo air brought in (eventually) two small planes to take everyone out in time to make their connections in Nassau. Remember, if you are flying to the Family Islands, time and schedules mean very little. Fortunately, all the people were delivered to Nassau in time to make their connections, primarily because no one had made connections within 4 hours of the scheduled arrival time.





A private pilot dropped in and picked up Altumus, saving him from a 6 mi Whaler ride, and me from a 12! Good things come to those who wait. How I would LOVE to see this area from the air from a small plane!





When I went back to the MERCY, I texted Vicki's husband that she was on the way, and remarked that her plane out of Blackpoint had been delayed, but that she had plenty of time to make the connection. I left HER to tell him about the adventure, as I didn't want him thinking too hard about that as she flew home!





I did laundry, and made use of their wi-fi while I did! You've got to love Rockland Laundry in BlackPoint!

Hog Cay south through the inside

On Tuesday, we took the MERCY, towing the Whaler, and meandered to the south through the inside, up against the islands instead of in the deep waters of the Sound or going way out on the bank. These areas are known for shoaling sand, and it had been years since I had been through there.





We ran along the deep channel west of Hall's Pond Cay, and SW around the sandbar below the southern tip of that island. We cleared the bar and ran back to the NE towards the northern end of Ridge Cay. I don't think it was necessary for us to go to the SW as far as we did, but, since it was raining at that point, it was difficult to read the water. We passed immediately to the west (rock tossing distance) of the islands to the west of Ridge Cay, following the bank of that island with an immediate turn to the east along the south side of the island. The channel through here is pretty visible.





Along the west side of Little Hall's Pond we found two mooring balls that appear to belong to Exumas Land and Sea Park. We rounded the tip of Little Hall's Pond and looked, but could not locate, the sunken airplane along the reef there. We saw dinghy moorings at the Sea Aquarium, up next to the small cay that is north of O'Briens Cay. There is also a large boat mooring just inside O'Briens Cay.





We paralleled the coast of O'Briens Cay, passing to the east of the rocks laying halfway between Pasture Cay and O'Briens. We were headed to Cambridge Cay mooring field. We passed to the east of the small cay in the middle of the cut and ducked into the Cambridge Cay mooring field as a squall with dramatic winds was passing through. The mooring field was empty, and there were tiny white caps through the mooring field. We turned around and headed back to the serene mooring we'd seen behind Little Hall's Pond. This time I passed to the west of the island in the middle of the cut, and went around the south and then west end of Pasture Cay before turning NE and completed the circuitous route.





Little Hall's Pond aka Johnny Depp's Island, is private, with no trespassing signs along the beaches. The side nearest the moorings are rocks coming down into the water, making for great snorkeling along the rocky wall. There is a lot of current through here, so it is a slack tide adventure.





We went over and snorkeled the Sea Aquarium from the installed dinghy mooring. Although the current flies through here, snorkeling on the falling tide, the current hits the wall, and upwells into the corner, making a great area to snorkel behind that upwelling, out of the current. So the boat on the mooring is in strong current, and one boat width away you can be out of the current. There were tons of tropicals, several Nassau grouper, sergeant majors, angel fish, trigger fish, lobster, etc. Everything there looks like they are used to being fed, even though it would be against park rules to do so.

Vacationing around stormy weather....

I did laundry in Black Point and mosied on down to anchor to the west of Sampson Marina.. That is a nice anchorage, unless you get a westerly wind. There was a 140' yacht there, and a 60' It is also on the Staniel to Compass small boat route, and between boats flying past, and jet skies zipping through the anchorage...





In the morning at high tide, and with the latest weather info, I took the shallow water route south and west of Sampson to the deep channel heading up to OverYonder Cay, and turned into my selected spot tucked in next to Thomas Cay to ride out the weather associated with Tropical Storm Chantel. Later that afternoon, a sailboat, Soon Reach, decided the same thing, but anchored in the middle of the channel. I watched him get bounced around by wakes for a couple of days.





Mercy-dog and I took the Whaler through protected water on Thursday to pick up Dorothy at Staniel Cay.





The Staniel Cay Yacht Club has a good relationship with Watermakers Air, out of the executive airport in Fort Lauderdale. This US based airline of small planes seems to be one of the most reliable forms of transportation. They fly from Fort Lauderdale to Andros to clear Customs/Immigration, and then on to Staniel. I would love to make that flight, just to be able to see the low altitude view of the islands! You can get transportation via golf cart with Staniel Cay Yacht Club from the airport to the marina.





On the way to the MERCY, Dorothy and I swung by Big Majors to feed the swimming picks some old bread that I needed to get off the boat. Mercy-dog always wants whatever we're feeding pigs or fish! We just beat a sprinkling rain back to the boat.





On Friday, with the remnants of TS Chantel providing winds, we roamed the quiet protected waters in the vicinity, drift snorkeling and exploring the areas around Pipe Cay, Little Pipe Cay, Compass Cay, and Joe Cay.





Friday night/Saturday morning in the wee hours, we had a 50 kt storm blow through. I'm sure Dorothy wondered what she was getting into.





Saturday morning we saw two ladies off the Soon Reach, and their two dogs walking the beach, and we went in and joined them for an energetic walk on Thomas Cay along a trail that was new to me. The trail cut across the island to the cut, and then along the sound side. They pointed out a couple of other trails as well.





With the squalls over, and our water tanks topped off, we moved the MERCY through the inside, past Compass Cay, did a drive-by of Rocky Dundass, but didn't stop, did a drive-by of Cambridge Cay, and then went outside into the Sound and down to the Hog Cay mooring field at South Wardwick Wells.





While at the mooring field for a coouple of days, we drift snorkeled with the Whaler through several of the cuts, snorkeled along the outside of Hog Cay, snorkeled around Emerald Rock, and did a dive at Jeep reef. One of the more interesting features is the tunnel that goes all the way through Hog Cay, which is pretty much open at low tide. At high tide, when I did it, when the surge wasn't so bad, there are openings to the sky every few feet, making for an easy snorkel. Having said that, it is a good idea to make sure you are swimming into the current, which ensures a ride back.





There were lots of big lobster in these protected areas, as well as an abundance of conch, and tropical fish. The water clarity and the abundance of coral and rocky reefs are always fun.

Excuses for not blogging

In response to the numerous messages I've received, the MERCY and crew are fine.

I have not had internet access in a long time capable of posting the blog.

Tropical Storm Chantel pretty much dissipated before reaching the Bahamas, the windy conditions we'd had the last month persisted.  We had a 50 kt squall or so while we were tucked in the sweet anchorage at Thomas Cay.

My friend Dorothy flew into Staniel, and spent a week. 

My friend Vicki flew into Blackpoint, and also spent a week.

I will update the blog when I get a chance, and maybe finally get some photos on.

I learned yesterday that my mom is in ICU in the States, and appreciate your prayers for her and my dad.

Where to ride out a storm in the Exumas

In the Exumas, one of the better places to ride out a tropical storm would be Red Shanks anchorage, where I just left from. Mutter, mutter... There are islands all around you, and the bottom is great holding.





Other areas that come to my mind are the pond inside Rudder Cut Cay, which I'm not sure about the ownership of the pond. I do know you'd have to go in past surveillance cameras, barking dogs, and no trespassing signs, that I figure only apply to land. I'd hate to plan on going there and finding out there was an upset land owner. That pond is almost totally surrounded (except for the dredged cut) and I'm not sure of the bottom composition. I started to take the Whaler in there a month ago, but, didn't want to get into a conflict with anybody.





Cave Cay marina is another great, totally surrounded place. I don't know how the holding on the dredged bottom would be in the harbor. If this were a hurricane, I'd go there.





Where I was anchored at Thomas Cay has a lot of current, but provides good wind protection, and is hard enough to get into that I don't expect to see other boats there.





Compass Cay marina claims to have good protection. I'm not sure about that one.





I scoped out Norman's Pond Cay to figure out how to get in there, in the event of a hurricane. It is just further north than I need to go.





The reason I'm in this area is to pick up Dorothy who is flying into Staniel, and will wait until I see if it looks like she cancels before I commit too seriously to where I'm going.





Friends and family can follow me on SPOT.

Pimlico Cays really are a nice route

For some reason I had the impression that cutting through Pimlico Cays, rather than going out into the Sound was a shallow, treacherous route that should only be done following someone else.  I had no problems coming through there.  If you use the Explorer chart's line on the Garmin, it is a pretty good guide.  

In the near vicinity of the cays themselves, forgot the line, and just follow the deeper water that is very visible.  My pucker factor might have made the trip unenjoyable if I had taken the 4'4" draft through at dead low tide, but in good visibility at a mid to high tide, it gave me enough comfort to roam a little to ascertain how wide some of the areas were. 

The shallowest water of the trip was after the West Pimlicos, and the bar across the Darby's.  If you are going south, and you make those, you have it made.

After I passed by Darby's, I stopped and anchored by the cave on Rudder Cut Cay, and took the Whaler back to snorkel the mermaid.  Thank you David Copperfield!  You added a smile to my trip!  The sculpture of the mermaid is sitting at a grand piano.  I don't know why I didn't take my camera.

I do know why I didn't go get it and bring it back, however.  The rain was coming hard and fast up from the south, and I figured I'd get underway and travel in the rain.  I picked up the anchor, and went less than a mile, and decided to anchor up, wash the salt off the boat, enjoy listening to a book while the storms passed by.

After a little over an hour, I pulled anchor one more time, and headed the inside route all the way to Black Point.

About the time I got anchored up, and things secured, Dorothy texted me to ask if I thought the plane would fly on Thursday, due to the tropical storm.

Sure enough, the storm had decided to head in my direction.  I sure am glad I bought the internet card, where I can read the forecast discussions from the National Hurricane Center.

Checking out the back of Great Exuma

I took the Whaler down the east coast of Great Exuma at high tide, all the way to the Ferry. The shallowest spot was the bar between Rolletown and Man o War Cay. It would I idled over it, and was glad it was a high tide. At the Ferry, I went under the bridge, and worked my way out to the west coast, and ran south to the Goat Cay/Hog Cay cut. I decided it would be plenty doable with my 4'4" draft.





I also ran up the east coast, staying well


inside Pigeon Cay. I left a breadcrumb trail, and decided that was also doable with the Mercy, regardless of tide.





I bought an unlocked T-Mobile device from Georgetown, and a data SIM card from BTC. I now have cellular internet. While I won't be posting any photos until I can hook into wi-fi, it is nice to be able to watch the weather.





On Sunday morning, with a little drop in the wind, I raised anchor and headed south in the Mercy, Whaler in tow. I ran down my trail, through Hog Cay Cut, and up through the cut between Bowe Cay on the west, and Jewfish Cay to the east.





I changed course then to clear Rocky Point, and then turned up through Pudding Point. I rounded Pudding Point, and headed east until I could pass to the west of Pigeon Cay. It sure was a long way to go for such a short distance, but, it kept me from running the rough waters of the Sound.





From here, I was back in familiar waters, and went north to anchor in a cove off a lovely beach along Lee Stocking Island.





Mercy and I went to the beach and enjoyed a good romp on the beach. Mercy dog played like a puppy. I was kinda tired.

On to Georgetown

Tuesday July 2





The wind dropped off a little early this morning, so I was underway by 0400. From Thompson Bay to Georgetown is shallow water most of the way, so it doesn't get rough the way the Sound can, just sort of a nasty chop. Running directly downwind, however, made for an easy trip. By the time I got where I needed to be able to see coral heads, the sun was high enough I could.





I swung in to Hog Cay to look at the cut through there, but had hopes that at some point in the next ten days the wind would drop enough to run the Sound from Georgetown to the north, at least up 20 miles or so to get out of the real shallow inside waters.





In Georgetown, I did the drive-by, looking for Rudy and Jill on the Briney Bug. I spotted them anchored off Monument Beach. I saw the Swing Set in the planned marina area at Crab Cay, and talked to Rolls Doc at Sand Dollar Beach, where I had originally planned on going. The wind however, from the SE was blowing better than 20, putting a roller in there, so I went around to the calm secluded anchorage at Red Shank. The area provides an easy access to the beach for Mercy dog.





A quick Whaler exploration found Next Gig just around the corner, a little further up from where I was anchored. Later, I heard, but didn't see, Bye Polar.





It rained enough Tuesday afternoon and evening to top the water tank off.





On Wednesday, I went by and talked to the Next Gig, went on to Georgetown and saw the Briney Bug had come and anchored close to go to the store. At the grocery dock, looking for Rudy and Jill, I ran into Mike and Rosie from the Swing Set. It is kind of fun, this loose knit boating community. The Blue Heaven, a trawler anchored near the Briney Bug promised to call me when he saw the couple return.





In the afternoon, Rudy called me from the Blue Heaven, and I ran over to meet Jill and Rudy and give them a hard time for Rich on the Calypso.





I spent hours plotting various scenarios for getting to Staniel Cay to pick up Dorothy on the 11th if the winds keep up, as forecast. Everyone says this is the windiest summer they can remember.





From Georgetown, you have a couple of options. You can jump into Exuma Sound (think deep, big seas) or run the back side, on the bank. Right now the wind is forecast to blow for as long as you can see. I'll probably go the extra 40 miles to run the bank?

Rounding up things at Salt Pond

Sat June 29-Mon Jul 1





Saturday morning rumbled with thunder, ominous storm clouds, and changing winds. In the course of the day, the MERCY walked around on her anchor as the wind blew from every direction. Winds were out of the west long enough for the bay to get rough, and items not secured got thrown around. One item that was secured broke loose and was destroyed. I cried over the television. Rudy, the straps broke loose. I was having such fun watching GoPro videos on the tv. I stayed in a foul mood for the day.





The Good Samaritan who was flying in with the pump delayed his flight until Monday, and the afternoon plane he would have arrived on never came in anyhow.





A bunch of bad weather, high winds, rain all around, and less than a gallon total to the boat.





Sunday was a better day, with a good service at church. I was delighted to see the boys from Friday there, along with that many more young men that age sitting together in church. I got a lot of shy smiles.





Sunday afternoon I met some nice folks at the boat ramp. I went back over to the government dock to walk up and check email, and said hello to lots of people I've met during my stay. I'm starting to feel like a resident here.





Monday morning I got a text that the Good Samaritan was finally flying in, and I spent the day doing miscellaneous chores around the boat. I'm going to run in now, and post the blog, and hopefully get my pump.





Since I have lost my window of opportunity to go to Conception in the ten days waiting on the pump (the winds are high now) I plan to head to Georgetown in the morning. I may not have much opportunity to post the blog the next few days.

Kids in Salt Pond

Friday June 28





I decided last night that I would try to give some Salt Pond residents a good memory of me. Adults can forget you pretty quick, but you can give kids a few hours they'll remember for a long time.





I went up to the local grocery store this morning to get in touch with David, an adult I've talked to several times since I've been here, to see if he knew any kids whose parents would approve, who'd want to go "exploring" with me. He quickly rounded up two of his sons, and two other young fellows ready to set off for an adventure.





We stopped by the MERCY for long enough to round up a few flashlights, extra snorkel gear, water, and show the boys the boat. I was delighted when one boy commented that this was the cleanest boat he'd ever been on. At this point, everyone who knows me is probably laughing. I wondered how many other boats the boys have been on! I was glad the liked the MERCY.





Then four boys, one dog, and I left in search of a cave Mr. Harding from the store, and grandpa to two of the boys, had told me about. I'd had a long visit with Mr. Harding, and he gave me a lot of good information about various caves around.





In the course of four hours, before our promised return, each boy drove the Whaler, we went to a couple of different beaches, hiked a path through the woods, did a little snorkeling, and found the cave that Kevin Miller had told me about. The cave Mr. Harding had told me about had hurricane debris and cactus in the sink, and we didn't go in that one.





I told two of the boys on the Whaler, while the other two were snorkeling, that Kevin had lost a spear here last week. The words were barely out of my mouth, when one young man surfaced with the spear. On our return, we left the spear at the grocery store, where they promised to give it to his mom, who drops by in the afternoons. I know Kevin will be surprised and happy! The same kid that found the spear caught a huge land crab that he proudly took home. I have yet to eat land crab, but one day will.





We stopped by the boat on the way home, and I produced by stash of fireballs, which none of the boys had ever had. I also took some to the other boy their age who was working in the grocery store, so couldn't make the day with us. I let him play with the iPad for awhile.





Mercy was tuckered out after hiking and swimming, and trying to keep up with four boys. Come to think of it, so was I! We all had a great time.





Mr Harding from the store answered my question about the canals (see Wednesdays) The land where I explored Wednesday was Crown land, leased by the Diamond Glaze Salt Company in the 60's, and they dug the canals then. He said the salt production continued through the late 80's. He also told me where there was a fresh water spring in the area. As a young man (he's 76) he said he'd walked through that entire area. I guess he'd trapsed around a lot, and liked the idea that I liked to explore.





He also told me that during WWII, they could see lights between communicating ships at night, though they were never close enough to be seen during the day.

Saying good-byes too soon

Thursday June 27


Saying my good-byes too soon


I worked around the boat for awhile in the morning. In the afternoon I went in to town for what I thought would be my last day in Salt Pond for awhile. I went by the tourism office, thanked everyone, and checked my email.





I walked up the road to where I'd promised the pastor's mom and grandma I'd come up and visit. I sat out under the tree where she plaits, and she showed me the strips of many different patterns that she sells to someone in Nassau, where they are sewn into purses, baskets, hats, and a variety of things.





I decided the plane bringing my Good Samaritan with the insulin pump must be running late. After returning to the boat, feeding Mercy dog, and taking her to the beach, I texted the fellow, and found out he'd changed plans to return on Saturday.





Guess I'll be in Salt Pond for a couple of more days.

More explorations to the south

Wednesday, June 26


Today is my mom's 80th birthday! Happy Birthday Mom!





This morning I went in to the government dock for a few minutes to walk up to where I could get a wi-fi signal to check email. Then I went over to Long Island Petroleum to gas up the Whaler.





An hour before the expected high tide at the Creek, we ran back down there. I was disappointed to find NO access from the south deep enough for the MERCY, due to the sand shoals. I explored the area from west to east this time, and followed a narrow dug canal around. I wonder if these canals were dug for the old salt pond operations? I followed one that parallels the Creek, which is a natural channel, that curves around to parallel the west side of the bay N23 10.6' W 075 09.6' I'm going to try to find some history on these, and if I do, will reference a later post here.





The mailboat came in this evening, as it does here each Wednesday, and stays until Thursday morning. When I went to church tonight, I tied up at a parishioner's dock for the service time, leaving the Whaler a little further away from the mailboat activity.





My insulin pump has been delivered to my Good Samaritan in the States, who is flying home to Long Island tomorrow.

Still anchored in Thompson Bay

Tuesday, June 25





Today I did a few maintenance chores, and installed a couple of new LED dome lights that I've had sitting on the boat now for several months, waiting for a weather day to install them. I'm not sure why I haven't done that before today, but that project is now off my list.





I took advantage of wi-fi up at the tourism office, and caught up on some needed correspondence.





Salt Pond is a great little community. The people here are friendly. There is a great church, two grocery stores, a marine supply, the fuel dock with diesel, gas, and water, a local car rental, a Batelco tower, and a nice anchorage. I understand there are daily flights into Stella Maris, and Deadman's Cay.

Another trip in Salt Pond Cave

Monday, June 24





This morning, I loaded my back pack with lights and camera, and made one more, more thorough investigation of the Salt Pond Cave. I spent over an hour, working my way to the very back of the cave, to a room where they say an "altar" is carved. Hmmmm. OK, some people think that. I wondered if it was an area dug in to set containers for water catchment.





Whatever that area is, it is interesting. But the cave is lovely to explore. It is fascinating to look at the areas eroded by water passage at some time in the distant past, and see the cave decorations primarily away from the center chamber.





The bats were squeaking and flying this morning in abundance. I randomly shot photos, but don't couldn't capture the four or five bats I saw almost constantly flying in my visual path directly in front of me in the side tunnel cavern that connects to the sink over by the yellow house.





There are banana trees growing in the sink. There are lots of small land crabs, and some humongous spiders.





After my hour plus expedition, I returned to where the MERCY was anchored, and anchored the Whaler. I pulled myself over to the MERCY with a line I'd attached, and then left the Whaler on the hook while I took the Nordic tug to the fuel dock at Long Island Petroleum.





After I fueled, I returned and dropped the anchor on the MERCY, and my calculations worked well. I managed to grab the Whaler's anchor line with a boat hook, and retrieved the skiff without having to swim for it!





I ran the Whaler in for gas, and was told that the gasoline tank was empty. (I guess I'd asked the wrong person 30 minutes earlier.) The Ocean Energy, a fuel tanker who traverses all these islands was on his way in, and I drifted and watched the operation for awhile.





The tanker came in pretty close, dropped a man in an outboard, turned stern to the dock, dropped her bow anchor, and then the man in the skiff ran a mooring line ashore.





This afternoon I found out the insulin pump had never been delivered. UPS had some kind of problem. The internet in town seemed to be down, and I couldn't get a call out to the insulin pump company. I let that eat on me all evening, but late last night got a text from my Good Samaritan saying he had resolved issues and it should be delivered tomorrow. That is an answer to prayer!

At home in Salt Pond

Sunday, June 23

This morning I ran over to Long Island Petroleum and tied the Whaler up while I went to the Assembly of God church, just up the road to the north. This morning they began their worship service with songs I knew! Later, they sang a few more songs I didn't know, but am learning.

After church, the pastor's family invited me to their home to join them for lunch, as well as another visitor there. It was nice eating great food in a family atmosphere. I checked my email, and posted last week's blogs, though I haven't had a chance to put up any photos yet.

The pastor gave me a ride to where I'd left the boat, before dropping Victor off where he was staying.I spent some of the afternoon rearranging stores. I pulled some miscellaneous supplies from the harder to get to storage places and reloaded my front, easy accessible locker.

In the evening, I ran Mercy dog over to the boat ramp, located towards the southern end of Thompson Bay, to let her walk around a little.

Then I pulled up almost in front of the government dock, able almost momentarily to hook into an open Wi-Fi signal, sending an email.  (I hope!)

 

 

The Creek, south of Thompson Bay by Whaler

Saturday, June 22





If I had any more fun exploring day, I don't think I could stand it.





We left the MERCY at our anchorage in Thompson Bay and took the Whaler to the south, stopping first at the government dock in Salt Pond to walk over to the public trash bin and dispose of some garbage. I was amazed that the Long Island Breeze Resort had taken their dock apart when they closed for the season. I knew they were shutting down for a few months, but they picked up their floating dock, the adjustable extension, and about half of the dock boards. Its pretty obvious they don't want boaters tying up there while they are closed.





After disposing of the trash, we went down to the boat ramp to let Mercy-dog stretch her legs for a few minutes.





Then, with the wind puffing away, we rode in the lee down to a point just west of Duncanson Point, closer to that point than Upper Channel Cay to the west. I drifted and looked for conch in the 5' deep water. I saw a 15' Whaler with two guys also looking unsuccessfully for conch. They took off for "the Bight" and I thought it sure was rough to cut across in their little boat.





After I gave up on conch for dinner, I turned south to a point just west of Snapper Creek Cay, where I picked up a very obvious (visually) channel snaking through to the south. After I rounded Blue Hole Cay, I passed along its south coast slowly working my way to the west. I was carefully watching the depths until I picked up the very obvious "the Creek" following the north shore of the islands south of Blue Hole Cay. (I don't see their names.)





The water in here was gorgeous, and calm as the wind blue 20 knots around me. I can not describe all the beautiful colors of blue that were over the sand to the north of Wells Point. My only regret is not checking to make sure there was enough water to bring MERCY in from the south. This would be the ultimate place to ride out a cold front, with tons of dinghy exploration through the protected creeks.





I can tell you, there isn't enough water to come in from the north, and there was barely enough water for me to take the Whaler out of the north end of the channel. Its depth, like many channels in the Keys, just peters out. I crossed through about 3' of water for a couple hundred yards before coming out into more comfortable depths south of Upper Channel Cay.





I beat my way into the wind until I was once again behind the protection of Duncanson Point. I saw a speck in the distance, that proved to be the two conch hunters. I didn't venture out of the lee. I saw one six ft nurse shark meandering towards the way I was coming from.





I also went by the blue hole I wanted to spend a little more time at yesterday. I think I've found two undercuts that I may come back and investigate with a tank sometime.





I also checked the numbers of the wreck of the Marcella, N23 19.830 W075 08.860, which is pretty close to where it is charted. It might be a good snorkel on a calmer day.





I returned to the boat after about a 32nm trek, and a glorious way to spend a day. I also did a little work on my list, ongoing scrubbing of the waterline of the boat. I don't know how I can grow grass so fast.





I called Long Island Petroleum, and got permission to tie the Whaler to their inside dock tomorrow to go to church.

Blue holes by Whaler

Friday, June 22


Today is the summer solstice, and I am almost on top of the Tropic of Cancer. That means that today, around noon, the sun will be directly overhead. It really makes for interesting shadows!





I put the dive compressor back on the roof, since I put it on deck when expecting rough seas, like to/from Rum, and it is sort of in the way on the deck. I drained the gas out of the carburetor, and replaced the air filter in the dive compressor before topping off my SCUBA tanks.





While I was on the roof, I noticed how much dirt the solar panels had picked up overnight, from the wind blowing off the island. I'd cleaned the panels off yesterday afternoon, since an unsalted, clean panel is a happy panel. Hmmm. Guess I'll soap the boat when it rains...





Realizing that squalls were forecast for the afternoon, I took the Whaler to the south, exploring. I let Mercy-dog out at the boat ramp to walk around for a few minutes, and then we continued our journey south. I checked out one cave that didn't go very far, and meandered in a few of the coves, looking for a good anchorage for a northwest wind, in case I'm here this winter.





I found this beautiful blue hole, and I hope this photo captures my dilemma. A gorgeous sunny day, a beautiful blue hole, and a coming wall of rain. BTW, I'll give you this one, N23 15.890' W075 07.060 I looked at it from the boat on the bottom machine, but decided I'd have to snorkel it another day.





I made it back to the MERCY in time to get the Whaler tied up before it started to rain. Rain is always an event! I scurried around closing hatches, put on a swim suit, and began washing the boat down. I recirculated about 20 gallons of water until the boat was pretty clean, but there was still a little soap residue when the sun popped back out.





The solar panels kicked out about 30 amps/hr for two hours, and then it began to rain again. It was funny watching it charge at a high rate, right up until the rain hit. I recirculated about 10 gallons of water rinsing the rest of the soap residue away, and then was ready to catch water to top off the tanks. After this rinse bout, the skies remained cloudy, and the solar panels took the rest of the day off. This could become a run the generator, watch a movie night.





I added about 20 of the 25 gallons I was down to the fresh water tank, after saving out the first 10 gallons to wash the dog tomorrow....

Cape Santa Maria, Calabash Bay to Thompson Bay

Thursday June 21


This morning Mercy-dog and I went in for a quick beach romp, and to thank Don for his help, and fill him in on the latest pump shipment. Then we ventured to the north to see if we could get to the high bluffs and likely looking caves inside the next cove to the north. The sand beach closest to the bluff is rocky and shallow out from shore, so we anchored at the sandy beach further south, and began looking for a trail. We hiked along the beach and rocks until we gave up on the idea of there being any path in that direction. The tropical vegetation was too thick to traipse thru without a machete, and it was too far to cut a path anyhow. That, and I'd left the machete on the MERCY.





It was interesting looking at the tidal pools behind the rocks, and the various pieces of rocks and coral thrown asunder by northwesterly waves. I found one interesting rock I wanted to save, and can't believe I lugged it all the way back to the Whaler from the further point away that we went. Mercy didn't mind me decorating her litter box bathroom.





In the afternoon, we headed south for Thompson Bay, and Salt Pond. I cruised a meandering route, going a little closer to the coast that I had on the way up, looking through binoculars for likely looking caves.





I saw a small boat anchored alongside a small rock island, and was surprised anyone was out diving in the 20 kt wind. After I was alongside them, still a half mile away, I saw two guys get into the boat. I watched them for a little bit, and realized they couldn't get their outboard started, and then they were paddling like crazy, trying to make the point before blowing past it. I circled the MERCY around and headed towards them, and they stopped paddling and dropped anchor when they realized I was coming to them. I anchored the MERCY and took the Whaler in to take them under tow, a much appreciated gesture! One of the two young men rode on the boat with me, so he could direct me where to go. Kevin Miller, of Millers (the community) has lived there all his life. He pointed a cave out to me (without me even mentioning caves!) and told me a good spot to get conchs.





I continued on to Thompson Bay, and anchored where I had spent the time at the regatta. There aren't many places I can attend church, and look out the window and see my boat at anchor!





The NEXT GIG was anchored a little further north in the bay, a couple on a power boat who had been anchored in a couple of places around Eleuthera where I was last year. I went over and we visited for awhile off the stern.





The wind has died a little this evening, but this is such a nice anchorage, I'm protected from the prevailing wind direction.

Nothing like a little help

Wednesday 19 June





This morning my mission was to make arrangements to have a replacement insulin pump shipped in. I checked around with the local resort to see if they knew any residents coming back the next couple of days with someone willing to hand carry the pager-sized piece of life support equipment. They knew someone coming in today (too quick) and someone in a couple of days (perfect!) who they were unable to get ahold of. They referred me to a broker who deals in handling bringing in items to the Bahamas.





I spoke with the broker, but was concerned about no one being responsible for an $8K pager-sized piece of equipment in a country where things sometimes get misplaced when coming through Customs.





I called my pastor friends in the islands in the area to see if they had anyone they knew returning from the States the next few days. In a couple of hours, one had called me with some contact info, and I was in business. I called the others and told them I was taken care of, and talked directly with the Good Samaritan in the States, and then Animas, the insulin pump company. I feel so much better!





The issue isn't Customs, since medical equipment is duty free, and even if it wasn't, I wouldn't be charged since its coming to me on the boat, and not for re-sale. However, the pumps aren't supposed to be x-rayed, and they are so tiny, (and so expensive) that I can't afford for it to get lost. The pump is replaced under warranty, but I'd have to buy another if it were lost.





Thanks to my not yet met Good Samaritan for their good deed. (Wish I'd been brave enough to ask them to bring a wi-fi antenna, but figured I'd save my favors for more life-important matters!) It sure is nice having church family in so many places!

Hoosie Harbour, Cape Santa Maria, Long Island

Tuesday 18 June





Today was a day with only minimal walking, and that barefoot on the soft sand while the top of skinned toe heals. How did I do that? I don't even know. I suspect it has something to do with hitting a dog bone in the dark. For those of you who don't know, Mercy-dog has her favorite bones, that are about a foot long, jagged on the ends, and enjoyed by my girl with her beautiful pearly whites for about fifteen minutes every evening. They weigh in at a couple of pounds, and I've lost track over the years how many times I've broken a toe nail or skinned a toe running into them in the dark. Time will tell if I've saved money on vet dental bills or lost money with a broken toe.





We took the Whaler into the creek that twists around behind Cape Santa Maria resort, following it all the way back to a low bridge that is too narrow for the Whaler to pass under. If it could, it would be less than two miles until I met the area I explored in Joe's Creek. There are some caves that look worth exploring by an inflatable or kayak, but with the wind, and the unknown draft, I chose not to go over there today. Besides, there were folks from the resort enjoying their kayaks over there, and I like to give those with exploring mind sets the feeling that they are the only ones who go there....





I took Mercy-dog back to the beach, and scrubbed off the grassy growth on the Whaler while she played in the sand. I wish I could stand in waist deep water and do the MERCY that way!





I met the couple on the Fly-N-Fish, Hank and Sue, who are retired pilots from the States, who now live in the Bahamas. They are here for their niece's wedding in a few days. (What a gorgeous spot for a wedding!) They normally have a helicopter on the stern of their 45' boat. I would love to see that! They have a retractable bridge that lowers to provide extra blade clearance. The helicopter overhangs the stern. I talked to the couple for a long time, and they seem like great folks!





On a down side, my water-proof insulin pump flooded today. I generally remove it when going in the water, but, I had jumped into waist deep water when I was taking Mercy to the beach, and had left it on while I scrubbed off the boat. I've snorkeled with it before, but, I usually just take it off. The company will replace it under warranty, the matter is just to figure out how to get it over here....

Rum Cay to Calabash Anchorage, Long Island

Monday 17 June





This morning, after listening to the SSB broadcast, telling of steadily increasing winds all week, culminating in a tropical wave meandering through on Fri/Sat, I decided to depart Rum go back to the lee of Long Island. I figured that it would be too rough to take Bobby dead coral gathering on the back beaches, and didn't want to blown into the marina for a week.





I would like to spend another week exploring the waters around Rum, but the weather isn't going to allow that this week, and if I move, I can anchor in a lee, where I can still explore.





It seems like Rum has had higher winds than the neighboring islands the past few days, and the seas were 6' or so when I first stuck my nose out of the reef. As soon as I got away from the wall, however, the seas dropped to 4' or so, on the stern as I headed for Long Island. The current that had slowed me before, gave me an equal push going back.





I entered the lee of Long Island, and worked my way back into the anchorage at Calabash Bay, with its beautiful beaches, and deep great holding sand. As much as I like to explore, and visit places I haven't been, it is nice to come back to something familiar.





The other thing, is it is really nice to be on the hook again, rather than alongside a dock. Mercy dog and I both enjoyed the first day at the dock, with ready access to land, and visits with other folks.





But, being back on the hook, in an area without current means my skylights are to the wind, for a nice breeze; there aren't any bugs, no creak of docklines or docks, and the gentle motion of the boat, and the lap of waves.





There is one other boat enjoying the anchorage with me tonight, a power boat!

Rum Cay at the dock

Sunday 16 June

Today I'm nursing a sore on the top of my foot and trying not to wear shoes or walk too much.

The wind was blowing out of the east, and there were rain clouds threatening. Notice this difference of description of threatening vs. promising or hopeful, depending upon the level of my fresh water tanks. My tanks are full, the clouds can threaten today.

I remembered the church in Black Point not having services when it rains, or threatens rain, and decided not to walk the mile into town to find out if the church at Rum Cay were meeting.

It is days like this that I really miss my church in Key West, and its great worship services and good preaching.

Diving the Rum Cay Wall

Saturday, 15 June 2013





Saturday morning the wind was calm, and my sailing friends left for San Salvador. As much as I want to go to San Salvador, they are running a tighter schedule than I have to, and I've got two more things I want to do here.





First, Bobby promised to make me a turtle, and that is worth waiting for! Later, we're going to take the Whaler around to a beach with scattered bleached and dead coral, where storms have littered the beaches with them, and I promised I'd help gather...





Secondly, I've always wanted to dive around Rum Cay, and I'm here, this is my chance.





The reason I didn't move out to anchor, Bobby has assured me that there is room for my boat here as long as I decide to stay. I was concerned about this, as he was expecting some large sportfishing boats to come in.





I took the Whaler and went meandering along the wall, marking a few places that looked good on the gps. Then I spotted two mooring balls, that I promptly investigated. I about shouted when I circled the one, the bottom looked perfect!





After putting out a granny line, I slipped into the crystal clear water, and could readily see a submerged float on the top of a head on the bottom, to help aid in underwater navigation, and a float for a safety stop.





There was very little current, and I checked the line and the attachments before going though a coral rock tunnel that opened out onto the wall. The view out that tunnel was spectacular! I exited the tunnel and journeyed across the wall face until I found another cut, coming back to the inside.





On a lot of walls, their is a fringing coral growth along the tops of the walls, so as you are approaching the wall from the shore, the bottom actually rises before it drops off the wall. My ideal bottom is sand chutes with coral ridges running perpendicular to shore, that end in the wall coral, with tunnels where you can pass through. This was my perfect place!





I dove the wall, and then eased over to the large coral patch the mooring line was chained into. The float on the top of the coral made navigation a snap, since the visibility was so spectacular.





I saw a couple of Caribbean reef sharks, and tons of smaller tropical fish. There was a pretty good diversity of coral, and I was delighted with the geographic structure of the dive. While I was waiting at my safety stop, along the line, I noticed a huge patch of sargassum weed drifting by. I hoped to see some big cruising fish, but did not. In the past few days, the fishermen have caught wahoo and blue marline along this coast, to say nothing of dolphin that routinely hang under the sargassum.





After the dive, I continued up the coast, enjoying watching the surf from the ocean side. The weather and water was awesome! I looked for a cut in the reef to get through to the salt pond, but was unwilling to attempt it with the surf.





Then I returned to the inside of the breakers out from the harbor, and snorkeled for awhile on some patch reefs. Then I made a short, 30' dive to check out one of the patch reefs and use the air in my tank down to 500 psi. When I dropped the hook, it settled on the bottom in sand, and I was amazed how tiny it looked. What I had hoped might be conch along the bottom would have been 20" across to have seen them.





I had watched a rain cloud forming all morning over Rum Cay, and I raced back to the boat to close hatches, arriving during sprinkles, just in time to close hatches before the heavy rains. I was already wet from diving, so it was a great time to collect rain water. I rinsed dive gear, topped my water tanks off, scrubbed the Whaler down, and eventually went inside and took a hot shower before re-topping the water tank off. I think that is the ultimate perfect way to end a day of diving!





The sun came out, and my fresh-showered, clean clothed self ambled out to catch lines for Ben, the Bahamian captain bringing in the sportfishing yacht with the owners aboard. They had missed out on the rain altogether.





Later that evening, I watched the sharks gather, patiently waiting for fish scraps and carcasses from the fish cleaning table.





Bobby had been surfing with some guests on the other side of the island, and he was back to pet a couple of nurse sharks that come up on the shore to get a morsel. It's a pretty good show!





Another great day in Rum Cay!

Trip to Hartford Cave

Friday, 14 June





Friday morning it began to rain about 0430. That is a wonderful way to wake up when your 150 gallon water tank is down to 45 gallons! I can stretch water when I need to, I just haven't been. I rinse off the dog every time she's in salt water. I rinse my gear when I snorkel. 150 gallons is a big tank for me and a dog. I caught 80 gallons that I saved, after I had washed stuff off, and gave the dog a bath





My sailing friends took off to explore the island on a rented golf cart, a great way to see the island.


I took the Whaler to find Hartford Cave, on the backside of the island. Remembering that the journey is the adventure, the trip around the point took me through some awesome water.





Garmin's cartography is developed somewhat by someone looking at aerial images, and guesstimating depths. Where a very dark image shows, often it is marked as a rock, when the bottom is actually grass in 20' of water. It's all about reading the water, and plotters are merely aids to navigation....





The southwestern side of the island is pot-marked with holes/sea caves in the rocky cliffs. There was one picturesque stone arch.





I saw one of the cows from the wild herd standing along the grassy area between a couple of the cliffs. I wonder, since beef is flavored by the type of grass a cow eats, what these cows must taste like. One of the locals told me that from time to time they go kill a cow...





The Flamingo Bay anchorage appears fantastic for a southerly, or southeasterly wind. There was a swell/surge similar to that like we encountered at Calabsh Bay on the day that I was there (with 16kt SE breeze.) There is deep white sand with black coral reefs. Yellow is elkhorn coral coming close to the surface. Some of the dark is grass. I would have no trouble loosely following Explorers waypoint and Garmin's track through the southern end, visually dodging reefs, with the trawler, with good light and visibility. From your anchorage, there are abundant patch reefs to snorkel or dive by dinghy. After the anchorage, the further around you go, the more abundant, and shallower the patch reefs get.





If you can make the passage without raising your blood pressure or destroying morale yelling at your crew, this is a good anchorage in the right conditions.





Hartford Cave is visible from the sea. It's eyebrow looking arch behind a 75' deep sandy beach awaited our arrival. We put a bow and stern anchor out, and flippered ashore floating a dry bag with my camera, lights, shoes, and assorted other treasures.





Some of the goat population evidently hangs in the coolness of the cavern, as evidenced by their droppings everywhere. If you think goat turds on your knees or hands will kill you, you might want to skip this one.





Hartford Cave is really a small cavern, with no area I could find out of natural light. That doesn't mean you don't need a flashlight... you do, you just probably don't need to lug a secondary light. What you need the flashlight for, and the reason I'm here, is to see the ancient (pre-Columbus) carvings in the wall. Bobby told me since I was there, that there are over 400 carvings, though I didn't find the numbers like that. Probably the reason I didn't, is that due to the huge amounts of rain here the past few months, parts of the walls are coated in green, and the algae obscures the petrogliffs.





If graffiti artists or carvers drew that stuff on a wall today, we would call it defacing a cave. But, hundreds of years later, they become historical. I was personally disappointed with the carvings I saw, as they didn't look that old, and impressed me more as defacing than historical. When I told Bobby that, he told me I just had missed a bunch of them. I'm not sure I'm willing to go snipe hunting twice, but, I suppose I've done some pretty dumb things...





Friday afternoon, when the sailors returned from their golf cart adventure, I took the golf cart and went a little further than I had previously walked. I was sent to see if it was too late to place an order for supper at either of the restaurants in town. Both cooks told me they like to know in the morning, or at least by 2. Neither were willing to begin preparing meals for 5 people at 5 o'clock in the afternoon.





The mailboat had arrived that morning, and re provisioned the town, and the one bar/restaurant had a half a dozen guys sitting under the tree, enjoying their first rum in a week. One man that was too drunk to stand wanted a ride home. Oh, and he wasn't sure which way that was. One of the young men in town, Patrick, who I'd met before, loaded him on the golf cart, and together, we took him to his drive way, where, upon disembarking the golf cart, promptly fell over in his driveway. We departed, leaving him for his family, including one teen-aged young man embarrassed by association. What a sad state of disrepair of a life.





I returned Patrick to where he'd joined me, and made one pass up the hill to see the view. I called John, on the Full Deck, to get him to pull some marinated beef strips from the freezer to begin defrosting, and ambled back to the boat. Maybe I'll have more time to explore ashore later.





I cook on the grill 95% of the time, but the no-see-ums and mosquitoes drove me inside, and I turned on the generator, air conditioner, and stove to cook a meal for me and my sailing buds. We had a great time visiting.

Walking around Rum Cay

Thursday, 13 June





In the morning, the wind was coming straight down the pier, and it was looking like rain. I decided to do some household chores and maintenance while I waited to see if I could catch some drinking water.





I defrosted the fridge and both freezers, cleaned, and vacuumed, moved stuff around, and re-cycled the little bit of rain water to pretty much get the salt off the boat.





I talked with one of the boats at noon, who had brought their SeaVee in from fishing to eat lunch on still ground. They had hooked two blue marlin, and one had totally stripped the line from the reel in under three minutes while they did their best to keep up with the fish, and hope he would turn.





In the afternoon, I walked a mile into town, and made a loop. I found two stores, and a restaurant, all closed as I went by. I saw an Anglican Episcopal church, and Saint John Baptist church.





I saw a couple of cemeteries, the most interesting one being just above the government dock, along the coast road. It is easy to find, surrounded by a low wall, between the road and the shore. Most of the graves had no markers, but appear very old. The markers I could read were from deaths in the 1880's.





I looked to sea, and was surprised, and delighted, to see my friends on the Full Deck and the Simpatico coming to Rum Cay. I had spoken with John in the morning on the SSB, and they had talked about going to Conception until Saturday, and then coming to Rum. I figured our paths would be crossing as we headed our separate directions.





I started walking for the marina, and Ben, a Bahamian captain of a 70' yacht docked here, was coming from the marina in his goft cart. He turned around and gave me a ride back to the marina, and we caught lines for the sailboats.





In the evening, a couple, Gene and Cat, and their friend Bill, that were anchored on a Leopard 40, Kalakau, invited us to join them for a pot-luck barbecue at the public park. We cooked fish and hamburgers, and chicken, and ate chips, and scalloped potatoes, and carrots, and bean salad.





This young couple took off last November to sail the Caribbean. Now they are returning to the States to go back to work in August. We talked to them about their adventures, and told them about some places we'd visited. They'll be in the Exumas for a little bit, and I hope our paths will cross again.

Calabash Bay to Rum Cay

Wednesday 12 June





The weather was calling for calming wind the next couple of days, so I headed around Cape Santa Maria for distant horizons... Rum Cay.







The seas were on my bow, and I bucked a current of over a knot that was from the SE. It was a nice trip, and I met one catamaran sailboat enroute.







When I arrived at Rum, the wind was picking up, and the swell was wrapping around on the reef. I sure was glad to see breakers on the distance that would cut the swell, which was on my beam at that point.







As soon as I got behind the breakers, the swell was gone, and I could shorten the tow for entering the harbor. There were buoys out, all to starboard going in, and I entered the great little hidden harbor of Rum Cay.







This marina was hit hard with Hurricane Irene, which shoaled the channel to about shin deep. At considerable time and expense the channel was re-dug, and is not in the same position as the latest Explorer charts show. In the Bahamas, its all about reading the water, anyhow.





The marina does not have electric, and some of their piers were damaged in Irene and Sandy, and they are allowing free dockage. It is the first dock I've been at overnight since I left the house!





Bobby has been here since the late 60's. His family had bought some land, and he built the facilities, and worked as a pilot for a now closed dive resort on the island. His real passion though, is for sculpturing. He carves gorgeous sculptures out of dead coral, and the property is surrounded with his works of art. Some of his art is on sale in Georgetown, or you can buy directly from him at Rum Cay.







The mailboat hasn't been to Rum Cay in several weeks, and the island is out of pretty much everything. I don't need anything, but, I've heard the locals about discussing it. Something about Rum Cay being out of rum...







Rum Cay is famous for its sportfishing, and when some of the boats returned in the evening, the area around the cleaning table came alive with sharks. I'm used to seeing big nurse sharks, but there are a lot of big lemon sharks here, too. I saw one BIG bull shark make a pass by, but only saw him once. There were over a dozen 8-ft plus sharks, and I didn't count the smaller ones.







I put the little GoPro camera on the PVC pole and stuck it in the water. Every time I'd put it in the water, the sharks would think I was feeding them, and I'd have to yank it out. It was fun trying, anyhow.





Bobby and Gro hosted a potluck pizza party, and I rounded up cheese, pepperoni, and a can of diced tomatoes, and everyone pitched in incredients. Gro cooked fantastic pizzas! It was fun visiting with the folks here.





Gro is from Norway, and originally came here by sailboat. After she left by boat, she flew back. Rum Cay is that kind of place!





Mercy met their dog, Ashley, who we had been cautioned about. Fortunately, Mercy gets along with everybody.

Calabash Bay

Tuesday, 11 June





Calabash Bay





Calabash Bay makes someone's top ten beaches, Barbara told me, and I've got to admit, it is pretty nice! Mercy dog and I walked, and played, and she dug a few holes at my encouragement. (I try to let her nails get soft in the water, and then when she digs, it manicures her nails up real nice. She likes that better than the nail grinder.)







We met a condo owner there, Don, and he and I walked and talked for over an hour. He works in Tennessee, and was enjoying his first day back in awhile.







By Whaler, Mercy and I explored the tidal creeks behind the island, which are deep enough to get MERCY at low tide. There's just a lot of current back there.





Then we went to the north, and around to the Columbus monument. The bay immediately north of Calabash is a great looking anchorage. I may move there tomorrow if the wind is still up. There are a couple of short, sandy beaches, back-dropped by a rocky coast, with cliffs in the interior of the island.







If you dinghy around beyond the Columbus monument, there is a tidal creek you can get into, and a sandy landing sort of behind the rock. I didn't land there, as I didn't want to anchor, and the Whaler isn't a boat you pull up on the beach!





We returned to the boat and grilled shish-k-bobs, and called it a night



OK, I realize I only had photos of the monument and cliffs, you'll have to keep reading to see if I get the beach when I'm here later!

Cave at Salt Pond, to Calabash Bay

Monday 10 June





This morning I was determined to find a cave that Pastor Jimmy had told me about. I climbed around through a lot of brambles, looking for the cave. I found a couple of caves, but none like he described.





When I met with the pastor later than morning I got clearer directions from him after I told him where I'd looked.













I moved the MERCY to the fuel dock, and topped off the diesel tanks, as well as the gas tank on the Whaler. I contemplated filling the water tank. OK, actually, I had planned to fill it ahead of time, but sort of forgot. I think it will rain before I need water.





I anchored the MERCY away from the fuel dock, and made one last, valiant attempt to find the cave, and boy am I glad I did!











The cave is spectacular! The cavern section has a ceiling 15' high, and is 100' wide in some places. Pastor Jimmy had drawn me a diagram of which turn to take, and all I can say is "Wow!" There were stalagmites, stalactites, and columns. Further back than I went, he said there is a stone they call the Altar, but, one of my lights was dimming, and I wanted a good spare to go any further. The next time I return, I'll find the stone.











































Coming out, I took another turn in the cavern section, which goes over sort of under a house. As I was walking that way, I felt like Indiana Jones. Remember the movie where he steps on something that crackles, and he's on ground covered in cockroaches? Well, I stepped on something soft, and it was bat guano. When I shone the light up, there was a dome loaded with bats! They didn't like the light, and liked the infared light on the camera even less! Allen, you should have been there!







After I returned to the boat, I got underway for Calabash Bay, on the northern end of Long Island, to be ready for the good weather to cross to Rum Cay or Conception, depending upon the wind direction. I ended up bucking a current, which put me in around sunset. My friends on the Full Deck, and Simpatico are here as well as another sloop rigged sailboat, and 130' yacht, with its assorted sportfisherman, and smaller boats.

Salt Pond Assembly of God Church

Sunday 9 June


This morning I tied up the Whaler at Long Island Breeze Resort dock, and walked up the road to the left to attend church at the Assembly of God. I met Billy and Leslie on S/V Bye Polar at the church.





The service was good, and I enjoyed the diversity of musicians there... a keyboard, a bass, 2 electric guitars, and an acoustic, as well as a drum set. I only knew one chorus and their closing hymn, and I know a LOT of different choruses! With the lyrics projected on the screen, it wasn't too hard to follow. The congregation was friendly, and like many churches, a lot better attended on Sunday morning than it was Wednesday evening. Pastor Fox delivered a timely message. There was no service that evening, I think probably because of the holiday regatta.





After service, we walked with Samantha across the street, and ate a Bahamian home cooked meal. It was wonderful. The peas and beets mix was the only like that I've ever eated, at it was GREAT! Chicken, rice, and coconut water. Mmmm! Yummy!





I returned to the boat where I had left the generator on and the air conditioner running for Mercy, since it gets too hot with the boat shut up, and it had looked like rain. When I walked in, I quickly realized I could take a nap in air conditioning, and did.

Driving Long Island by van

Saturday, June 8

Full Deck and Simpatico and I had agreed to rent a car to tour Long Island, something they have done before, but I had not.  However, the regatta had every car on the island rented!  Pastor Jimmy loaned us his van, and I left my Whaler with him so he could see the races!

It was my first time driving on the left hand side of the road, but it surprised me how easy that was.  Every time we'd pull out onto to the road, someone in the car would remark "left" so that helped too!

We went to Clarencetown and back.  We stopped at the old Church of the Bight and walked behind it to a trail to the "shrimp hole" that we never found.  Someone told us later, to find the shrimp hole, go just past the wall, and then turn right.  We'd kept going straight.

We stopped at the museum and enjoyed looking at the items there, and talking with the lady there.  Then we went into Clarencetown to see the old Anglican Church, adn the old Catholic Church.  The Anglican Church had a brand new roof on it, and there were signs that reconstruction inside were underway.  I think both of those churches were the product of Father Jerome, who buiilt the Hermitage at New Bight, Cat Island.  We climbed the belfry of the Catholic Church, and the view was spectacular.

We drove over to the marina, where a yacht captain would have paid us big bucks to rent Pastor Jimmy's car, as the owners wanted to tour the island, and there weren't any cars to be found!  We went away grinning from ear to ear at our good fortune in being able to borrow a car!

We drove down a road towards Bona Corde, a natural pool formed behind the rocks facing the Atlantic, making a sandy grotto.  what a beautiful place.  

Then we went to Dean's Blue Hole, reportedly the deepest blue hole in the world, and the site of many world freediving record attempts.  It has high rock bluffs curving around the inshore side, with a sandy beach beside it, and shallow, sandy areas around it.  There were about 30 people there, thanks to the holiday and the regatta.  We snorkeled the blue hole, and watched some of the folks jumping off the rock bluffs into the water.  

I should have taken a photo of the sign "Deadman's Cay Medical Clinic" which got me joking about how the name impressed me as a clinic you wouldn't want to visit.

We stopped at Max's Famous Conch Bar and Grill and watched Max make his famous conch salad.  I ate cracked conch and enjoyed looking at all the license plates and t-shirts, and miscellaneous treasures gleaned from the sea.  They had two whale vertebrae hanging above the bar, and lots of other interesting things.

We returned to Salt Pond about 5 o'clock, and after a quick run to the boat to pick up Mercy, went back into the regatta grounds, (think, "fair") talked to a lot of different people, and watched the kids riding the zip line and getting their faces painted.  At some point I many of the boaters gathered up together, and everyone was enjoying the regatta.  

At some point during the closing ceremonies, my body kept insisting it was bedtime, so Mercy and I went back to the boat.  I was glad we did, as a little squall blew through.  There was not enough rain to catch water, just enough my bunk would have been wet if I hadn't been here to close the skylight.  The wind howled, and somehow the vibration harmonics caused a catastrophic failure in my wi-fi amp antenna.  So, now, even though I haven't been able to reach an open signal here, I don't know if I'll be able to fix it enough to get a signal on it anywhere.  Time will tell.