Kids in Salt Pond

Friday June 28





I decided last night that I would try to give some Salt Pond residents a good memory of me. Adults can forget you pretty quick, but you can give kids a few hours they'll remember for a long time.





I went up to the local grocery store this morning to get in touch with David, an adult I've talked to several times since I've been here, to see if he knew any kids whose parents would approve, who'd want to go "exploring" with me. He quickly rounded up two of his sons, and two other young fellows ready to set off for an adventure.





We stopped by the MERCY for long enough to round up a few flashlights, extra snorkel gear, water, and show the boys the boat. I was delighted when one boy commented that this was the cleanest boat he'd ever been on. At this point, everyone who knows me is probably laughing. I wondered how many other boats the boys have been on! I was glad the liked the MERCY.





Then four boys, one dog, and I left in search of a cave Mr. Harding from the store, and grandpa to two of the boys, had told me about. I'd had a long visit with Mr. Harding, and he gave me a lot of good information about various caves around.





In the course of four hours, before our promised return, each boy drove the Whaler, we went to a couple of different beaches, hiked a path through the woods, did a little snorkeling, and found the cave that Kevin Miller had told me about. The cave Mr. Harding had told me about had hurricane debris and cactus in the sink, and we didn't go in that one.





I told two of the boys on the Whaler, while the other two were snorkeling, that Kevin had lost a spear here last week. The words were barely out of my mouth, when one young man surfaced with the spear. On our return, we left the spear at the grocery store, where they promised to give it to his mom, who drops by in the afternoons. I know Kevin will be surprised and happy! The same kid that found the spear caught a huge land crab that he proudly took home. I have yet to eat land crab, but one day will.





We stopped by the boat on the way home, and I produced by stash of fireballs, which none of the boys had ever had. I also took some to the other boy their age who was working in the grocery store, so couldn't make the day with us. I let him play with the iPad for awhile.





Mercy was tuckered out after hiking and swimming, and trying to keep up with four boys. Come to think of it, so was I! We all had a great time.





Mr Harding from the store answered my question about the canals (see Wednesdays) The land where I explored Wednesday was Crown land, leased by the Diamond Glaze Salt Company in the 60's, and they dug the canals then. He said the salt production continued through the late 80's. He also told me where there was a fresh water spring in the area. As a young man (he's 76) he said he'd walked through that entire area. I guess he'd trapsed around a lot, and liked the idea that I liked to explore.





He also told me that during WWII, they could see lights between communicating ships at night, though they were never close enough to be seen during the day.

Saying good-byes too soon

Thursday June 27


Saying my good-byes too soon


I worked around the boat for awhile in the morning. In the afternoon I went in to town for what I thought would be my last day in Salt Pond for awhile. I went by the tourism office, thanked everyone, and checked my email.





I walked up the road to where I'd promised the pastor's mom and grandma I'd come up and visit. I sat out under the tree where she plaits, and she showed me the strips of many different patterns that she sells to someone in Nassau, where they are sewn into purses, baskets, hats, and a variety of things.





I decided the plane bringing my Good Samaritan with the insulin pump must be running late. After returning to the boat, feeding Mercy dog, and taking her to the beach, I texted the fellow, and found out he'd changed plans to return on Saturday.





Guess I'll be in Salt Pond for a couple of more days.

More explorations to the south

Wednesday, June 26


Today is my mom's 80th birthday! Happy Birthday Mom!





This morning I went in to the government dock for a few minutes to walk up to where I could get a wi-fi signal to check email. Then I went over to Long Island Petroleum to gas up the Whaler.





An hour before the expected high tide at the Creek, we ran back down there. I was disappointed to find NO access from the south deep enough for the MERCY, due to the sand shoals. I explored the area from west to east this time, and followed a narrow dug canal around. I wonder if these canals were dug for the old salt pond operations? I followed one that parallels the Creek, which is a natural channel, that curves around to parallel the west side of the bay N23 10.6' W 075 09.6' I'm going to try to find some history on these, and if I do, will reference a later post here.





The mailboat came in this evening, as it does here each Wednesday, and stays until Thursday morning. When I went to church tonight, I tied up at a parishioner's dock for the service time, leaving the Whaler a little further away from the mailboat activity.





My insulin pump has been delivered to my Good Samaritan in the States, who is flying home to Long Island tomorrow.

Still anchored in Thompson Bay

Tuesday, June 25





Today I did a few maintenance chores, and installed a couple of new LED dome lights that I've had sitting on the boat now for several months, waiting for a weather day to install them. I'm not sure why I haven't done that before today, but that project is now off my list.





I took advantage of wi-fi up at the tourism office, and caught up on some needed correspondence.





Salt Pond is a great little community. The people here are friendly. There is a great church, two grocery stores, a marine supply, the fuel dock with diesel, gas, and water, a local car rental, a Batelco tower, and a nice anchorage. I understand there are daily flights into Stella Maris, and Deadman's Cay.

Another trip in Salt Pond Cave

Monday, June 24





This morning, I loaded my back pack with lights and camera, and made one more, more thorough investigation of the Salt Pond Cave. I spent over an hour, working my way to the very back of the cave, to a room where they say an "altar" is carved. Hmmmm. OK, some people think that. I wondered if it was an area dug in to set containers for water catchment.





Whatever that area is, it is interesting. But the cave is lovely to explore. It is fascinating to look at the areas eroded by water passage at some time in the distant past, and see the cave decorations primarily away from the center chamber.





The bats were squeaking and flying this morning in abundance. I randomly shot photos, but don't couldn't capture the four or five bats I saw almost constantly flying in my visual path directly in front of me in the side tunnel cavern that connects to the sink over by the yellow house.





There are banana trees growing in the sink. There are lots of small land crabs, and some humongous spiders.





After my hour plus expedition, I returned to where the MERCY was anchored, and anchored the Whaler. I pulled myself over to the MERCY with a line I'd attached, and then left the Whaler on the hook while I took the Nordic tug to the fuel dock at Long Island Petroleum.





After I fueled, I returned and dropped the anchor on the MERCY, and my calculations worked well. I managed to grab the Whaler's anchor line with a boat hook, and retrieved the skiff without having to swim for it!





I ran the Whaler in for gas, and was told that the gasoline tank was empty. (I guess I'd asked the wrong person 30 minutes earlier.) The Ocean Energy, a fuel tanker who traverses all these islands was on his way in, and I drifted and watched the operation for awhile.





The tanker came in pretty close, dropped a man in an outboard, turned stern to the dock, dropped her bow anchor, and then the man in the skiff ran a mooring line ashore.





This afternoon I found out the insulin pump had never been delivered. UPS had some kind of problem. The internet in town seemed to be down, and I couldn't get a call out to the insulin pump company. I let that eat on me all evening, but late last night got a text from my Good Samaritan saying he had resolved issues and it should be delivered tomorrow. That is an answer to prayer!

At home in Salt Pond

Sunday, June 23

This morning I ran over to Long Island Petroleum and tied the Whaler up while I went to the Assembly of God church, just up the road to the north. This morning they began their worship service with songs I knew! Later, they sang a few more songs I didn't know, but am learning.

After church, the pastor's family invited me to their home to join them for lunch, as well as another visitor there. It was nice eating great food in a family atmosphere. I checked my email, and posted last week's blogs, though I haven't had a chance to put up any photos yet.

The pastor gave me a ride to where I'd left the boat, before dropping Victor off where he was staying.I spent some of the afternoon rearranging stores. I pulled some miscellaneous supplies from the harder to get to storage places and reloaded my front, easy accessible locker.

In the evening, I ran Mercy dog over to the boat ramp, located towards the southern end of Thompson Bay, to let her walk around a little.

Then I pulled up almost in front of the government dock, able almost momentarily to hook into an open Wi-Fi signal, sending an email.  (I hope!)

 

 

The Creek, south of Thompson Bay by Whaler

Saturday, June 22





If I had any more fun exploring day, I don't think I could stand it.





We left the MERCY at our anchorage in Thompson Bay and took the Whaler to the south, stopping first at the government dock in Salt Pond to walk over to the public trash bin and dispose of some garbage. I was amazed that the Long Island Breeze Resort had taken their dock apart when they closed for the season. I knew they were shutting down for a few months, but they picked up their floating dock, the adjustable extension, and about half of the dock boards. Its pretty obvious they don't want boaters tying up there while they are closed.





After disposing of the trash, we went down to the boat ramp to let Mercy-dog stretch her legs for a few minutes.





Then, with the wind puffing away, we rode in the lee down to a point just west of Duncanson Point, closer to that point than Upper Channel Cay to the west. I drifted and looked for conch in the 5' deep water. I saw a 15' Whaler with two guys also looking unsuccessfully for conch. They took off for "the Bight" and I thought it sure was rough to cut across in their little boat.





After I gave up on conch for dinner, I turned south to a point just west of Snapper Creek Cay, where I picked up a very obvious (visually) channel snaking through to the south. After I rounded Blue Hole Cay, I passed along its south coast slowly working my way to the west. I was carefully watching the depths until I picked up the very obvious "the Creek" following the north shore of the islands south of Blue Hole Cay. (I don't see their names.)





The water in here was gorgeous, and calm as the wind blue 20 knots around me. I can not describe all the beautiful colors of blue that were over the sand to the north of Wells Point. My only regret is not checking to make sure there was enough water to bring MERCY in from the south. This would be the ultimate place to ride out a cold front, with tons of dinghy exploration through the protected creeks.





I can tell you, there isn't enough water to come in from the north, and there was barely enough water for me to take the Whaler out of the north end of the channel. Its depth, like many channels in the Keys, just peters out. I crossed through about 3' of water for a couple hundred yards before coming out into more comfortable depths south of Upper Channel Cay.





I beat my way into the wind until I was once again behind the protection of Duncanson Point. I saw a speck in the distance, that proved to be the two conch hunters. I didn't venture out of the lee. I saw one six ft nurse shark meandering towards the way I was coming from.





I also went by the blue hole I wanted to spend a little more time at yesterday. I think I've found two undercuts that I may come back and investigate with a tank sometime.





I also checked the numbers of the wreck of the Marcella, N23 19.830 W075 08.860, which is pretty close to where it is charted. It might be a good snorkel on a calmer day.





I returned to the boat after about a 32nm trek, and a glorious way to spend a day. I also did a little work on my list, ongoing scrubbing of the waterline of the boat. I don't know how I can grow grass so fast.





I called Long Island Petroleum, and got permission to tie the Whaler to their inside dock tomorrow to go to church.

Blue holes by Whaler

Friday, June 22


Today is the summer solstice, and I am almost on top of the Tropic of Cancer. That means that today, around noon, the sun will be directly overhead. It really makes for interesting shadows!





I put the dive compressor back on the roof, since I put it on deck when expecting rough seas, like to/from Rum, and it is sort of in the way on the deck. I drained the gas out of the carburetor, and replaced the air filter in the dive compressor before topping off my SCUBA tanks.





While I was on the roof, I noticed how much dirt the solar panels had picked up overnight, from the wind blowing off the island. I'd cleaned the panels off yesterday afternoon, since an unsalted, clean panel is a happy panel. Hmmm. Guess I'll soap the boat when it rains...





Realizing that squalls were forecast for the afternoon, I took the Whaler to the south, exploring. I let Mercy-dog out at the boat ramp to walk around for a few minutes, and then we continued our journey south. I checked out one cave that didn't go very far, and meandered in a few of the coves, looking for a good anchorage for a northwest wind, in case I'm here this winter.





I found this beautiful blue hole, and I hope this photo captures my dilemma. A gorgeous sunny day, a beautiful blue hole, and a coming wall of rain. BTW, I'll give you this one, N23 15.890' W075 07.060 I looked at it from the boat on the bottom machine, but decided I'd have to snorkel it another day.





I made it back to the MERCY in time to get the Whaler tied up before it started to rain. Rain is always an event! I scurried around closing hatches, put on a swim suit, and began washing the boat down. I recirculated about 20 gallons of water until the boat was pretty clean, but there was still a little soap residue when the sun popped back out.





The solar panels kicked out about 30 amps/hr for two hours, and then it began to rain again. It was funny watching it charge at a high rate, right up until the rain hit. I recirculated about 10 gallons of water rinsing the rest of the soap residue away, and then was ready to catch water to top off the tanks. After this rinse bout, the skies remained cloudy, and the solar panels took the rest of the day off. This could become a run the generator, watch a movie night.





I added about 20 of the 25 gallons I was down to the fresh water tank, after saving out the first 10 gallons to wash the dog tomorrow....

Cape Santa Maria, Calabash Bay to Thompson Bay

Thursday June 21


This morning Mercy-dog and I went in for a quick beach romp, and to thank Don for his help, and fill him in on the latest pump shipment. Then we ventured to the north to see if we could get to the high bluffs and likely looking caves inside the next cove to the north. The sand beach closest to the bluff is rocky and shallow out from shore, so we anchored at the sandy beach further south, and began looking for a trail. We hiked along the beach and rocks until we gave up on the idea of there being any path in that direction. The tropical vegetation was too thick to traipse thru without a machete, and it was too far to cut a path anyhow. That, and I'd left the machete on the MERCY.





It was interesting looking at the tidal pools behind the rocks, and the various pieces of rocks and coral thrown asunder by northwesterly waves. I found one interesting rock I wanted to save, and can't believe I lugged it all the way back to the Whaler from the further point away that we went. Mercy didn't mind me decorating her litter box bathroom.





In the afternoon, we headed south for Thompson Bay, and Salt Pond. I cruised a meandering route, going a little closer to the coast that I had on the way up, looking through binoculars for likely looking caves.





I saw a small boat anchored alongside a small rock island, and was surprised anyone was out diving in the 20 kt wind. After I was alongside them, still a half mile away, I saw two guys get into the boat. I watched them for a little bit, and realized they couldn't get their outboard started, and then they were paddling like crazy, trying to make the point before blowing past it. I circled the MERCY around and headed towards them, and they stopped paddling and dropped anchor when they realized I was coming to them. I anchored the MERCY and took the Whaler in to take them under tow, a much appreciated gesture! One of the two young men rode on the boat with me, so he could direct me where to go. Kevin Miller, of Millers (the community) has lived there all his life. He pointed a cave out to me (without me even mentioning caves!) and told me a good spot to get conchs.





I continued on to Thompson Bay, and anchored where I had spent the time at the regatta. There aren't many places I can attend church, and look out the window and see my boat at anchor!





The NEXT GIG was anchored a little further north in the bay, a couple on a power boat who had been anchored in a couple of places around Eleuthera where I was last year. I went over and we visited for awhile off the stern.





The wind has died a little this evening, but this is such a nice anchorage, I'm protected from the prevailing wind direction.

Nothing like a little help

Wednesday 19 June





This morning my mission was to make arrangements to have a replacement insulin pump shipped in. I checked around with the local resort to see if they knew any residents coming back the next couple of days with someone willing to hand carry the pager-sized piece of life support equipment. They knew someone coming in today (too quick) and someone in a couple of days (perfect!) who they were unable to get ahold of. They referred me to a broker who deals in handling bringing in items to the Bahamas.





I spoke with the broker, but was concerned about no one being responsible for an $8K pager-sized piece of equipment in a country where things sometimes get misplaced when coming through Customs.





I called my pastor friends in the islands in the area to see if they had anyone they knew returning from the States the next few days. In a couple of hours, one had called me with some contact info, and I was in business. I called the others and told them I was taken care of, and talked directly with the Good Samaritan in the States, and then Animas, the insulin pump company. I feel so much better!





The issue isn't Customs, since medical equipment is duty free, and even if it wasn't, I wouldn't be charged since its coming to me on the boat, and not for re-sale. However, the pumps aren't supposed to be x-rayed, and they are so tiny, (and so expensive) that I can't afford for it to get lost. The pump is replaced under warranty, but I'd have to buy another if it were lost.





Thanks to my not yet met Good Samaritan for their good deed. (Wish I'd been brave enough to ask them to bring a wi-fi antenna, but figured I'd save my favors for more life-important matters!) It sure is nice having church family in so many places!

Hoosie Harbour, Cape Santa Maria, Long Island

Tuesday 18 June





Today was a day with only minimal walking, and that barefoot on the soft sand while the top of skinned toe heals. How did I do that? I don't even know. I suspect it has something to do with hitting a dog bone in the dark. For those of you who don't know, Mercy-dog has her favorite bones, that are about a foot long, jagged on the ends, and enjoyed by my girl with her beautiful pearly whites for about fifteen minutes every evening. They weigh in at a couple of pounds, and I've lost track over the years how many times I've broken a toe nail or skinned a toe running into them in the dark. Time will tell if I've saved money on vet dental bills or lost money with a broken toe.





We took the Whaler into the creek that twists around behind Cape Santa Maria resort, following it all the way back to a low bridge that is too narrow for the Whaler to pass under. If it could, it would be less than two miles until I met the area I explored in Joe's Creek. There are some caves that look worth exploring by an inflatable or kayak, but with the wind, and the unknown draft, I chose not to go over there today. Besides, there were folks from the resort enjoying their kayaks over there, and I like to give those with exploring mind sets the feeling that they are the only ones who go there....





I took Mercy-dog back to the beach, and scrubbed off the grassy growth on the Whaler while she played in the sand. I wish I could stand in waist deep water and do the MERCY that way!





I met the couple on the Fly-N-Fish, Hank and Sue, who are retired pilots from the States, who now live in the Bahamas. They are here for their niece's wedding in a few days. (What a gorgeous spot for a wedding!) They normally have a helicopter on the stern of their 45' boat. I would love to see that! They have a retractable bridge that lowers to provide extra blade clearance. The helicopter overhangs the stern. I talked to the couple for a long time, and they seem like great folks!





On a down side, my water-proof insulin pump flooded today. I generally remove it when going in the water, but, I had jumped into waist deep water when I was taking Mercy to the beach, and had left it on while I scrubbed off the boat. I've snorkeled with it before, but, I usually just take it off. The company will replace it under warranty, the matter is just to figure out how to get it over here....

Rum Cay to Calabash Anchorage, Long Island

Monday 17 June





This morning, after listening to the SSB broadcast, telling of steadily increasing winds all week, culminating in a tropical wave meandering through on Fri/Sat, I decided to depart Rum go back to the lee of Long Island. I figured that it would be too rough to take Bobby dead coral gathering on the back beaches, and didn't want to blown into the marina for a week.





I would like to spend another week exploring the waters around Rum, but the weather isn't going to allow that this week, and if I move, I can anchor in a lee, where I can still explore.





It seems like Rum has had higher winds than the neighboring islands the past few days, and the seas were 6' or so when I first stuck my nose out of the reef. As soon as I got away from the wall, however, the seas dropped to 4' or so, on the stern as I headed for Long Island. The current that had slowed me before, gave me an equal push going back.





I entered the lee of Long Island, and worked my way back into the anchorage at Calabash Bay, with its beautiful beaches, and deep great holding sand. As much as I like to explore, and visit places I haven't been, it is nice to come back to something familiar.





The other thing, is it is really nice to be on the hook again, rather than alongside a dock. Mercy dog and I both enjoyed the first day at the dock, with ready access to land, and visits with other folks.





But, being back on the hook, in an area without current means my skylights are to the wind, for a nice breeze; there aren't any bugs, no creak of docklines or docks, and the gentle motion of the boat, and the lap of waves.





There is one other boat enjoying the anchorage with me tonight, a power boat!

Rum Cay at the dock

Sunday 16 June

Today I'm nursing a sore on the top of my foot and trying not to wear shoes or walk too much.

The wind was blowing out of the east, and there were rain clouds threatening. Notice this difference of description of threatening vs. promising or hopeful, depending upon the level of my fresh water tanks. My tanks are full, the clouds can threaten today.

I remembered the church in Black Point not having services when it rains, or threatens rain, and decided not to walk the mile into town to find out if the church at Rum Cay were meeting.

It is days like this that I really miss my church in Key West, and its great worship services and good preaching.

Diving the Rum Cay Wall

Saturday, 15 June 2013





Saturday morning the wind was calm, and my sailing friends left for San Salvador. As much as I want to go to San Salvador, they are running a tighter schedule than I have to, and I've got two more things I want to do here.





First, Bobby promised to make me a turtle, and that is worth waiting for! Later, we're going to take the Whaler around to a beach with scattered bleached and dead coral, where storms have littered the beaches with them, and I promised I'd help gather...





Secondly, I've always wanted to dive around Rum Cay, and I'm here, this is my chance.





The reason I didn't move out to anchor, Bobby has assured me that there is room for my boat here as long as I decide to stay. I was concerned about this, as he was expecting some large sportfishing boats to come in.





I took the Whaler and went meandering along the wall, marking a few places that looked good on the gps. Then I spotted two mooring balls, that I promptly investigated. I about shouted when I circled the one, the bottom looked perfect!





After putting out a granny line, I slipped into the crystal clear water, and could readily see a submerged float on the top of a head on the bottom, to help aid in underwater navigation, and a float for a safety stop.





There was very little current, and I checked the line and the attachments before going though a coral rock tunnel that opened out onto the wall. The view out that tunnel was spectacular! I exited the tunnel and journeyed across the wall face until I found another cut, coming back to the inside.





On a lot of walls, their is a fringing coral growth along the tops of the walls, so as you are approaching the wall from the shore, the bottom actually rises before it drops off the wall. My ideal bottom is sand chutes with coral ridges running perpendicular to shore, that end in the wall coral, with tunnels where you can pass through. This was my perfect place!





I dove the wall, and then eased over to the large coral patch the mooring line was chained into. The float on the top of the coral made navigation a snap, since the visibility was so spectacular.





I saw a couple of Caribbean reef sharks, and tons of smaller tropical fish. There was a pretty good diversity of coral, and I was delighted with the geographic structure of the dive. While I was waiting at my safety stop, along the line, I noticed a huge patch of sargassum weed drifting by. I hoped to see some big cruising fish, but did not. In the past few days, the fishermen have caught wahoo and blue marline along this coast, to say nothing of dolphin that routinely hang under the sargassum.





After the dive, I continued up the coast, enjoying watching the surf from the ocean side. The weather and water was awesome! I looked for a cut in the reef to get through to the salt pond, but was unwilling to attempt it with the surf.





Then I returned to the inside of the breakers out from the harbor, and snorkeled for awhile on some patch reefs. Then I made a short, 30' dive to check out one of the patch reefs and use the air in my tank down to 500 psi. When I dropped the hook, it settled on the bottom in sand, and I was amazed how tiny it looked. What I had hoped might be conch along the bottom would have been 20" across to have seen them.





I had watched a rain cloud forming all morning over Rum Cay, and I raced back to the boat to close hatches, arriving during sprinkles, just in time to close hatches before the heavy rains. I was already wet from diving, so it was a great time to collect rain water. I rinsed dive gear, topped my water tanks off, scrubbed the Whaler down, and eventually went inside and took a hot shower before re-topping the water tank off. I think that is the ultimate perfect way to end a day of diving!





The sun came out, and my fresh-showered, clean clothed self ambled out to catch lines for Ben, the Bahamian captain bringing in the sportfishing yacht with the owners aboard. They had missed out on the rain altogether.





Later that evening, I watched the sharks gather, patiently waiting for fish scraps and carcasses from the fish cleaning table.





Bobby had been surfing with some guests on the other side of the island, and he was back to pet a couple of nurse sharks that come up on the shore to get a morsel. It's a pretty good show!





Another great day in Rum Cay!

Trip to Hartford Cave

Friday, 14 June





Friday morning it began to rain about 0430. That is a wonderful way to wake up when your 150 gallon water tank is down to 45 gallons! I can stretch water when I need to, I just haven't been. I rinse off the dog every time she's in salt water. I rinse my gear when I snorkel. 150 gallons is a big tank for me and a dog. I caught 80 gallons that I saved, after I had washed stuff off, and gave the dog a bath





My sailing friends took off to explore the island on a rented golf cart, a great way to see the island.


I took the Whaler to find Hartford Cave, on the backside of the island. Remembering that the journey is the adventure, the trip around the point took me through some awesome water.





Garmin's cartography is developed somewhat by someone looking at aerial images, and guesstimating depths. Where a very dark image shows, often it is marked as a rock, when the bottom is actually grass in 20' of water. It's all about reading the water, and plotters are merely aids to navigation....





The southwestern side of the island is pot-marked with holes/sea caves in the rocky cliffs. There was one picturesque stone arch.





I saw one of the cows from the wild herd standing along the grassy area between a couple of the cliffs. I wonder, since beef is flavored by the type of grass a cow eats, what these cows must taste like. One of the locals told me that from time to time they go kill a cow...





The Flamingo Bay anchorage appears fantastic for a southerly, or southeasterly wind. There was a swell/surge similar to that like we encountered at Calabsh Bay on the day that I was there (with 16kt SE breeze.) There is deep white sand with black coral reefs. Yellow is elkhorn coral coming close to the surface. Some of the dark is grass. I would have no trouble loosely following Explorers waypoint and Garmin's track through the southern end, visually dodging reefs, with the trawler, with good light and visibility. From your anchorage, there are abundant patch reefs to snorkel or dive by dinghy. After the anchorage, the further around you go, the more abundant, and shallower the patch reefs get.





If you can make the passage without raising your blood pressure or destroying morale yelling at your crew, this is a good anchorage in the right conditions.





Hartford Cave is visible from the sea. It's eyebrow looking arch behind a 75' deep sandy beach awaited our arrival. We put a bow and stern anchor out, and flippered ashore floating a dry bag with my camera, lights, shoes, and assorted other treasures.





Some of the goat population evidently hangs in the coolness of the cavern, as evidenced by their droppings everywhere. If you think goat turds on your knees or hands will kill you, you might want to skip this one.





Hartford Cave is really a small cavern, with no area I could find out of natural light. That doesn't mean you don't need a flashlight... you do, you just probably don't need to lug a secondary light. What you need the flashlight for, and the reason I'm here, is to see the ancient (pre-Columbus) carvings in the wall. Bobby told me since I was there, that there are over 400 carvings, though I didn't find the numbers like that. Probably the reason I didn't, is that due to the huge amounts of rain here the past few months, parts of the walls are coated in green, and the algae obscures the petrogliffs.





If graffiti artists or carvers drew that stuff on a wall today, we would call it defacing a cave. But, hundreds of years later, they become historical. I was personally disappointed with the carvings I saw, as they didn't look that old, and impressed me more as defacing than historical. When I told Bobby that, he told me I just had missed a bunch of them. I'm not sure I'm willing to go snipe hunting twice, but, I suppose I've done some pretty dumb things...





Friday afternoon, when the sailors returned from their golf cart adventure, I took the golf cart and went a little further than I had previously walked. I was sent to see if it was too late to place an order for supper at either of the restaurants in town. Both cooks told me they like to know in the morning, or at least by 2. Neither were willing to begin preparing meals for 5 people at 5 o'clock in the afternoon.





The mailboat had arrived that morning, and re provisioned the town, and the one bar/restaurant had a half a dozen guys sitting under the tree, enjoying their first rum in a week. One man that was too drunk to stand wanted a ride home. Oh, and he wasn't sure which way that was. One of the young men in town, Patrick, who I'd met before, loaded him on the golf cart, and together, we took him to his drive way, where, upon disembarking the golf cart, promptly fell over in his driveway. We departed, leaving him for his family, including one teen-aged young man embarrassed by association. What a sad state of disrepair of a life.





I returned Patrick to where he'd joined me, and made one pass up the hill to see the view. I called John, on the Full Deck, to get him to pull some marinated beef strips from the freezer to begin defrosting, and ambled back to the boat. Maybe I'll have more time to explore ashore later.





I cook on the grill 95% of the time, but the no-see-ums and mosquitoes drove me inside, and I turned on the generator, air conditioner, and stove to cook a meal for me and my sailing buds. We had a great time visiting.

Walking around Rum Cay

Thursday, 13 June





In the morning, the wind was coming straight down the pier, and it was looking like rain. I decided to do some household chores and maintenance while I waited to see if I could catch some drinking water.





I defrosted the fridge and both freezers, cleaned, and vacuumed, moved stuff around, and re-cycled the little bit of rain water to pretty much get the salt off the boat.





I talked with one of the boats at noon, who had brought their SeaVee in from fishing to eat lunch on still ground. They had hooked two blue marlin, and one had totally stripped the line from the reel in under three minutes while they did their best to keep up with the fish, and hope he would turn.





In the afternoon, I walked a mile into town, and made a loop. I found two stores, and a restaurant, all closed as I went by. I saw an Anglican Episcopal church, and Saint John Baptist church.





I saw a couple of cemeteries, the most interesting one being just above the government dock, along the coast road. It is easy to find, surrounded by a low wall, between the road and the shore. Most of the graves had no markers, but appear very old. The markers I could read were from deaths in the 1880's.





I looked to sea, and was surprised, and delighted, to see my friends on the Full Deck and the Simpatico coming to Rum Cay. I had spoken with John in the morning on the SSB, and they had talked about going to Conception until Saturday, and then coming to Rum. I figured our paths would be crossing as we headed our separate directions.





I started walking for the marina, and Ben, a Bahamian captain of a 70' yacht docked here, was coming from the marina in his goft cart. He turned around and gave me a ride back to the marina, and we caught lines for the sailboats.





In the evening, a couple, Gene and Cat, and their friend Bill, that were anchored on a Leopard 40, Kalakau, invited us to join them for a pot-luck barbecue at the public park. We cooked fish and hamburgers, and chicken, and ate chips, and scalloped potatoes, and carrots, and bean salad.





This young couple took off last November to sail the Caribbean. Now they are returning to the States to go back to work in August. We talked to them about their adventures, and told them about some places we'd visited. They'll be in the Exumas for a little bit, and I hope our paths will cross again.

Calabash Bay to Rum Cay

Wednesday 12 June





The weather was calling for calming wind the next couple of days, so I headed around Cape Santa Maria for distant horizons... Rum Cay.







The seas were on my bow, and I bucked a current of over a knot that was from the SE. It was a nice trip, and I met one catamaran sailboat enroute.







When I arrived at Rum, the wind was picking up, and the swell was wrapping around on the reef. I sure was glad to see breakers on the distance that would cut the swell, which was on my beam at that point.







As soon as I got behind the breakers, the swell was gone, and I could shorten the tow for entering the harbor. There were buoys out, all to starboard going in, and I entered the great little hidden harbor of Rum Cay.







This marina was hit hard with Hurricane Irene, which shoaled the channel to about shin deep. At considerable time and expense the channel was re-dug, and is not in the same position as the latest Explorer charts show. In the Bahamas, its all about reading the water, anyhow.





The marina does not have electric, and some of their piers were damaged in Irene and Sandy, and they are allowing free dockage. It is the first dock I've been at overnight since I left the house!





Bobby has been here since the late 60's. His family had bought some land, and he built the facilities, and worked as a pilot for a now closed dive resort on the island. His real passion though, is for sculpturing. He carves gorgeous sculptures out of dead coral, and the property is surrounded with his works of art. Some of his art is on sale in Georgetown, or you can buy directly from him at Rum Cay.







The mailboat hasn't been to Rum Cay in several weeks, and the island is out of pretty much everything. I don't need anything, but, I've heard the locals about discussing it. Something about Rum Cay being out of rum...







Rum Cay is famous for its sportfishing, and when some of the boats returned in the evening, the area around the cleaning table came alive with sharks. I'm used to seeing big nurse sharks, but there are a lot of big lemon sharks here, too. I saw one BIG bull shark make a pass by, but only saw him once. There were over a dozen 8-ft plus sharks, and I didn't count the smaller ones.







I put the little GoPro camera on the PVC pole and stuck it in the water. Every time I'd put it in the water, the sharks would think I was feeding them, and I'd have to yank it out. It was fun trying, anyhow.





Bobby and Gro hosted a potluck pizza party, and I rounded up cheese, pepperoni, and a can of diced tomatoes, and everyone pitched in incredients. Gro cooked fantastic pizzas! It was fun visiting with the folks here.





Gro is from Norway, and originally came here by sailboat. After she left by boat, she flew back. Rum Cay is that kind of place!





Mercy met their dog, Ashley, who we had been cautioned about. Fortunately, Mercy gets along with everybody.

Calabash Bay

Tuesday, 11 June





Calabash Bay





Calabash Bay makes someone's top ten beaches, Barbara told me, and I've got to admit, it is pretty nice! Mercy dog and I walked, and played, and she dug a few holes at my encouragement. (I try to let her nails get soft in the water, and then when she digs, it manicures her nails up real nice. She likes that better than the nail grinder.)







We met a condo owner there, Don, and he and I walked and talked for over an hour. He works in Tennessee, and was enjoying his first day back in awhile.







By Whaler, Mercy and I explored the tidal creeks behind the island, which are deep enough to get MERCY at low tide. There's just a lot of current back there.





Then we went to the north, and around to the Columbus monument. The bay immediately north of Calabash is a great looking anchorage. I may move there tomorrow if the wind is still up. There are a couple of short, sandy beaches, back-dropped by a rocky coast, with cliffs in the interior of the island.







If you dinghy around beyond the Columbus monument, there is a tidal creek you can get into, and a sandy landing sort of behind the rock. I didn't land there, as I didn't want to anchor, and the Whaler isn't a boat you pull up on the beach!





We returned to the boat and grilled shish-k-bobs, and called it a night



OK, I realize I only had photos of the monument and cliffs, you'll have to keep reading to see if I get the beach when I'm here later!

Cave at Salt Pond, to Calabash Bay

Monday 10 June





This morning I was determined to find a cave that Pastor Jimmy had told me about. I climbed around through a lot of brambles, looking for the cave. I found a couple of caves, but none like he described.





When I met with the pastor later than morning I got clearer directions from him after I told him where I'd looked.













I moved the MERCY to the fuel dock, and topped off the diesel tanks, as well as the gas tank on the Whaler. I contemplated filling the water tank. OK, actually, I had planned to fill it ahead of time, but sort of forgot. I think it will rain before I need water.





I anchored the MERCY away from the fuel dock, and made one last, valiant attempt to find the cave, and boy am I glad I did!











The cave is spectacular! The cavern section has a ceiling 15' high, and is 100' wide in some places. Pastor Jimmy had drawn me a diagram of which turn to take, and all I can say is "Wow!" There were stalagmites, stalactites, and columns. Further back than I went, he said there is a stone they call the Altar, but, one of my lights was dimming, and I wanted a good spare to go any further. The next time I return, I'll find the stone.











































Coming out, I took another turn in the cavern section, which goes over sort of under a house. As I was walking that way, I felt like Indiana Jones. Remember the movie where he steps on something that crackles, and he's on ground covered in cockroaches? Well, I stepped on something soft, and it was bat guano. When I shone the light up, there was a dome loaded with bats! They didn't like the light, and liked the infared light on the camera even less! Allen, you should have been there!







After I returned to the boat, I got underway for Calabash Bay, on the northern end of Long Island, to be ready for the good weather to cross to Rum Cay or Conception, depending upon the wind direction. I ended up bucking a current, which put me in around sunset. My friends on the Full Deck, and Simpatico are here as well as another sloop rigged sailboat, and 130' yacht, with its assorted sportfisherman, and smaller boats.

Salt Pond Assembly of God Church

Sunday 9 June


This morning I tied up the Whaler at Long Island Breeze Resort dock, and walked up the road to the left to attend church at the Assembly of God. I met Billy and Leslie on S/V Bye Polar at the church.





The service was good, and I enjoyed the diversity of musicians there... a keyboard, a bass, 2 electric guitars, and an acoustic, as well as a drum set. I only knew one chorus and their closing hymn, and I know a LOT of different choruses! With the lyrics projected on the screen, it wasn't too hard to follow. The congregation was friendly, and like many churches, a lot better attended on Sunday morning than it was Wednesday evening. Pastor Fox delivered a timely message. There was no service that evening, I think probably because of the holiday regatta.





After service, we walked with Samantha across the street, and ate a Bahamian home cooked meal. It was wonderful. The peas and beets mix was the only like that I've ever eated, at it was GREAT! Chicken, rice, and coconut water. Mmmm! Yummy!





I returned to the boat where I had left the generator on and the air conditioner running for Mercy, since it gets too hot with the boat shut up, and it had looked like rain. When I walked in, I quickly realized I could take a nap in air conditioning, and did.

Driving Long Island by van

Saturday, June 8

Full Deck and Simpatico and I had agreed to rent a car to tour Long Island, something they have done before, but I had not.  However, the regatta had every car on the island rented!  Pastor Jimmy loaned us his van, and I left my Whaler with him so he could see the races!

It was my first time driving on the left hand side of the road, but it surprised me how easy that was.  Every time we'd pull out onto to the road, someone in the car would remark "left" so that helped too!

We went to Clarencetown and back.  We stopped at the old Church of the Bight and walked behind it to a trail to the "shrimp hole" that we never found.  Someone told us later, to find the shrimp hole, go just past the wall, and then turn right.  We'd kept going straight.

We stopped at the museum and enjoyed looking at the items there, and talking with the lady there.  Then we went into Clarencetown to see the old Anglican Church, adn the old Catholic Church.  The Anglican Church had a brand new roof on it, and there were signs that reconstruction inside were underway.  I think both of those churches were the product of Father Jerome, who buiilt the Hermitage at New Bight, Cat Island.  We climbed the belfry of the Catholic Church, and the view was spectacular.

We drove over to the marina, where a yacht captain would have paid us big bucks to rent Pastor Jimmy's car, as the owners wanted to tour the island, and there weren't any cars to be found!  We went away grinning from ear to ear at our good fortune in being able to borrow a car!

We drove down a road towards Bona Corde, a natural pool formed behind the rocks facing the Atlantic, making a sandy grotto.  what a beautiful place.  

Then we went to Dean's Blue Hole, reportedly the deepest blue hole in the world, and the site of many world freediving record attempts.  It has high rock bluffs curving around the inshore side, with a sandy beach beside it, and shallow, sandy areas around it.  There were about 30 people there, thanks to the holiday and the regatta.  We snorkeled the blue hole, and watched some of the folks jumping off the rock bluffs into the water.  

I should have taken a photo of the sign "Deadman's Cay Medical Clinic" which got me joking about how the name impressed me as a clinic you wouldn't want to visit.

We stopped at Max's Famous Conch Bar and Grill and watched Max make his famous conch salad.  I ate cracked conch and enjoyed looking at all the license plates and t-shirts, and miscellaneous treasures gleaned from the sea.  They had two whale vertebrae hanging above the bar, and lots of other interesting things.

We returned to Salt Pond about 5 o'clock, and after a quick run to the boat to pick up Mercy, went back into the regatta grounds, (think, "fair") talked to a lot of different people, and watched the kids riding the zip line and getting their faces painted.  At some point I many of the boaters gathered up together, and everyone was enjoying the regatta.  

At some point during the closing ceremonies, my body kept insisting it was bedtime, so Mercy and I went back to the boat.  I was glad we did, as a little squall blew through.  There was not enough rain to catch water, just enough my bunk would have been wet if I hadn't been here to close the skylight.  The wind howled, and somehow the vibration harmonics caused a catastrophic failure in my wi-fi amp antenna.  So, now, even though I haven't been able to reach an open signal here, I don't know if I'll be able to fix it enough to get a signal on it anywhere.  Time will tell.

Long Island Sailing Regatta

Thursday, Friday June 6-7





If you are boating in the Bahamas, you have to make a point of attending a sailing regatta. Sailboats are divided into different classes, but, must be Bahamian designed, built, captained, and crewed (except they allow a certain number of non-Bahamians on each boat.) The boats and masts are wooden, with fiberglass only allowed on the decks and in some strengthening areas. No bowsprits, no spreaders, no aluminum spars, and no winches or windlasses are allowed. No wind or speed instruments, and no tell-tales are allowed. The sails are made of canous, a natural fabric, with no synthetic materials.





The booms on these vessels overhang the sterns by a third to half of the boat's length, and there are boards that the sailors clammer out on to counter-balance the wind in the sails. For the Long Island regatta, the A class boats, those over 25' can have up to 15 crew on board, the actual number changing with the wind speed for the weight required to balance the wind. Class B is 21-25' with up to 9 crew, and Class C is 16-21' with up to 5 crew.











The boats are lined up and anchored at the starting line. When the starting gun sounds, the race begins by the sailors scrambling to raise the anchor and the sails at the same time, all man-powered, without the help of winches and windlasses. They race in a varied course, generally triangular with a windward tack as well as a downwind run.

















The races are highly competitive, with cash prizes and island bragging rights to the winning vessels. The islands cheer their vessels like a city cheers her franchise ball team.





As the racing vessels converge on each other, you will hear shouts of "starboard, starboard" as a vessel with her wind to starboard is screaming that she has right of way to a vessel with her wind to port.











The races are exciting and fun, and with a skiff, it is fun to accompany the race, using care to stay out of the wind and out of the way, to yell encouragement and shoot photos. The crews of the Full Deck and Simpatico and I spent the entire day Thursday in the midst of the races.





On the first race on Thursday, three vessels were involved in a collision pretty early on, and were out of the race. A fourth broke her boom at the furthest distance of the "ocean race," and after the race ended, we went out and towed her in. Several of the crew members on that boat were involved in different racing classes, and I think they even delayed the next class awaiting some of the crew members to get in.





Ashore, it is like the fair has come to town, with food booths, souvenir booths, music playing, a kid's bounce house, and some kiddie games, etc. The opening ceremonies included welcomes from the race committees, politicians, a prayer from a pastor, a song from the primary school (they were awesome!)





When the kids were sailing Sunfish in an open class, the Full Deck, Simpatico, and I went to the finish line and whooped and hollered when the kids would cross the line. Its always nice to have someone behind you cheering for you!





Friday, Pastor Jimmy Fox joined us on the Whaler to watch the class B races to cheer for the Long Island Boat, which won the race by almost four minutes. The race was very close for 2nd, 3rd, and 4th.





In the afternoon I went ashore with Pastor Jimmy, who showed me around their ministry complex. They have housing for a team of about 16 for missions trips.





They poured a slab this past year for a community center. It presently has two sailboats sitting on the slab, to be used for missions outreaches to the neighboring islands.





I was amazed at a water evaporator system they have set up. They pump salt water into a glass enclosed low, flat tray, and catch the evaporated water. He told me with good sun, his little 4' x 8' trays make about 10 gallons in a day and a half.





After we'd visited for a bit, I met Scott and Heather at the dock, and we grabbed John and Barbara off the Full Deck, and hurried out to see the final race of the day.







Then the five of us ate supper on Simpatico, and it was great!

Long Island preparations for the Regatta

Wednesday, June 5





I was sitting at anchor this morning, after listening to the SSB weather, when I heard the splash of a bow wave. I looked out as a mailboat ambled beside me. If you are ever anchored off Salt Pond, the mailboats curve to the south before going into the government dock. I moved a little further south.





The barge-like vessel was laden with the sailboats arriving for the races, and their crews, as well as visitors for the races. Another high speed ferry arrived a few hours later, and a third vessel, also carrying a couple of racing boats arrived later in the day, after the original vessel had departed.





The first vessel, "the barge" the locals were calling it, was a type of car carrier, and it had on it a crane truck that began slinging off the sailboats. I watched as a few of the sailboats were set into the water, with one or two crew a piece, and sent to drift away downwind. I took the Whaler over to one, and he asked me to tow him over towards the fish house, and I complied. I'm not sure where the vessel that was supposed to be helping was, but, I know that for the rest of the morning, I was towing vessels, and taking crew ashore. A Bahamian skiff joined me, and we rotated pulling vessels away from the barge to where they could anchor, and when they were done rigging their vessels, picking up the crews and transporting them to shore, or back to "the barge." It was a great way to meet the sailors!





As the boats began practicing, I decided I was too close to the exhilaration of boats running into my anchored craft, and moved. They were practicing using my boat as a rounding mark, and it just got a little worrisome!





I also wandered to the south to check out a couple of blue holes that weren't very impressive, though I made a quick dive in one to check it out.





Then I took the MERCY to the north a tad, in the southern section of Thompson Bay, with a 140 degree bearing to the white church just up the hill. There is deeper sand here, and good holding.





Wednesday night I walked up the road to the left from Island Breeze Resort to that church, the Assembly of God, with Pastor Jimmy Fox. The congregation was friendly, and the service interesting as they began a study on the end times. I note with interest how attuned the Bahamians are to US politics.





After church someone gave me a ride down to the Island Breeze, where I had asked permission to tie the Whaler. The owners there left the gate open so I could get back to the boat. What nice folks! I'm going to go eat there sometime the next few days.







The church is interested in meeting boaters, and everyone ought to visit there. They are planning on installing a dinghy dock just down the hill, with the hopes of providing free water to cruisers. What a great idea! Anyone interested in helping Pastor Jimmy build his dock, contact me.

Georgetown to Thompson Bay, Long Island

Tuesday June 4





I took Mercy to Sand Dollar Beach for a quick romp, and then headed for Georgetown to buy some fresh veggies, dump the trash, and buy gas for the Whaler.







Georgetown sort of wraps around Lake Victoria, and there is a narrow channel going under the road that you can take your dinghy into the inside, with places to tie up. Georgetown has a nice grocery store, and that nice grocery store has a nice dinghy dock! The store opened at eight, and the supply boat had come in the day before, and there were some nice veggies! I bought a couple of items, and then went across the channel, still inside Lake Victoria, to Minn's Watersports to get gas.







I returned to MERCY and was underway by 1000, headed for Thompson Bay, Long Island. The crossing was nice, and I made a broccoli/cauliflower/black olive salad while on the way over. I looked at beautiful sandy beaches in the distance on deserted islands. I'll have to check that out another day...







We came into the bay, and anchored just out from Salt Pond, where there are a lot of Bahamian boats anchored. I took the Whaler around and took some photos of some of the sailboats. I'm looking forward to seeing the Long Island Sailing Regatta on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday.

Waters around Georgetown

Monday June 3





The weather was gorgeous on Monday, with almost no wind. I left the MERCY anchored off Black Rock, at Stocking Island, and Mercy and I took the Whaler in to Sand Dollar Beach. We anchored towards the western end of the beach, and after walking west to the rocks, we began walking along the beach to the east. About midway down the beach is a 4 x 4 post with a float on top of it, marking a trail inland. We followed that trail right across the middle of the island.







I read in the paper, later, that Georgetown had been flooded with last week's torrential rains, and that there were 6' of water in some places. I put this qualifier in my trail notes, since I came to two areas where the trail went underwater, about shin deep. The water was fresh, from the previous rains. The trail itself was interesting, seeing the tropical vegetation, a bunch of lizards, and some land crabs that are big enough they sound like rabbits when they move in the brush. The trail came out atop a cliff overlooking Exuma Sound. Following the trail further to the right, there are a lot of good views, and a couple of nice benches to sit and enjoy them. Though I could see where someone had climbed down, it certainly wasn't something I would do.





We walked back to the beach on the lee side, and down to the eastern curve before returning to the Whaler.





I grabbed my snorkel gear, and went over to Crab Cay, and snorkeled an underwater cave where the water was springing out. The water was so clear, it was wonderful.





We meandered through the bay, and out the cut east of Fowl Cay, on to Dog Rock, and then Puppy Rocks. Although I had a tank with me, I didn't find any exciting bottom. I even looked to see if I could see the Exumas dive boat, to figure out where they go, without success. I always enjoy putzing and looking!







That evening I went in to the Chat n' Chill to relax along the beach and watch the stingrays swim by while Heather painted numbers on John and Barbara's inflatable. I enjoyed a burger and fries there before calling it a night.